Search results

On the TLX/PKX/NDX boxes I use TransELF 'NFJ' only and haven't had issues. Others are cheaper and *supposedly* better but if you stick to what the book says you can't go wrong.

Check the length of the two front seat anchors. If one is shorter than the other it has fired. Diags will be your best bet chap

Plugs should be NGK PFR6E-10 and to timesert the head would need to come off. Helicoil Vs Timesert argument has been done to death on here and on the Internet in general. My personal position - I hate Helicoils because they're pikey

Sounds like they've been put in but not torqued up. You may be okay but ideally it needs a timesert (i hate helical but this would work to).

Unlucky but you better check the others are secure to before the same thing happens. Have you tried putting a plug in?

Bugger, not good. Number 3 by any chance?

Not common per say but known to happen from time to time. Any updates yet?

TRW make the ePAS rack I believe

Spark plug then - Check its not pulled the thread out of the head to as it may need time-serting

The "Other" brands tend to be LHD or EPAS racks. As above, most are SMI

Date, time and location dependent I'll turn up for a chinwag

Take it to see Dan@SJM - It needs a proper fault finding session on CLIP firstly to check all parameters are functioning correctly (Yes there are other bits of kit out there but non are 100% trustworthy as dealer level kit). This isn't the same as plugging it in and seeing if there are any fault...

Does it start and rev okay? Engine sounds normal or like a tank? Sounds like either a gearbox or driveshaft/CV issue at the minute

100% text book crankshaft sensor failure.

I have to run one in my car for this very reason even though it has no SRS units installed... the light is there and the car had them from factory so the light must function accordingly. Just comply mate

A Cup will take around 2.5hrs and you can wait/watch if you like but the longer we talk the longer the job takes. Mick

The second unit *should* (when the CAT is at temp and when it is functioning correctly) will be stable at around 400mV. The pre-CAT should be constantly switching

Sounds like a UPC Issue then with the clicking sounds. Have you checked the main fuses under the bonet in front of the battery to be sure one or more haven't blown or been damaged?

Wow, that's a serious job list... and why was it all needed? Sorry for the questions btw Steering angle is a parameter that is reported back to the Engine Management & ABS so the ESP program can function correctly. If it was faulty it wouldn't stop the steering firing up and the fact the...

What has happened to the car to make you think it's Angle Sensor related?

Even once it has been reconfigured you will still need the SRS ECU connected to the CANBUS otherwise the clockset won't receive a signal and the warning light will be on (Which is an MOT failure)

Yes, it needs to stay in and connected otherwise the dash light will stay lit

What codes are present?

As Fred said above, it's also the most common f'k up when replacing rear brakes.

3 to 4 hours

It's fuel injection, pumping the pedal won't do anything. You need to start proving that essentials have power and earth's im afraid.

The car will start and run even without the MAP Sensor (The ECU will go to a known "Safe" all be it governed parameter). Saying that though, the same can be said for the throttle setup and with either hte pedal or throttle body disconnected the vehicle *should* still start but hold a fixed...

Pop in if you can Chris, we're in Long Eaton www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

New aux belt kit to I hope?

A damaged reluctor ring wouldn't cause the light to come on and stay on at ignition... in that instance it would more than likely only illuminate when the wheel was rotating and the generated waveform was deemed faulty. This is more like a incoherence issue due to a faulty sensor/sensor...