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Re: car not starting , with stop light, oil pressure light on and immobiliser light s Disconnecting the battery does not clear the fault codes. What've you've done here is created a bad connection so remove the battery terminals, clean them up and re-attach them correctly. Mick

We get dodgy car traders come in all the time asking to do it for them and they think we're stupid... yeah, we'll de-configure something so you can sell it on to some poor mug who thinks everything is right. I don't mind reconfiguring for the replacement of standard equipment with aftermarket...

Chances are Chi, if it's on the Megane II, that it's to do with drivers airbags 1 and 2... so it'll need a clock-spring assembly which is around £50 second hand or £130 new. Please don't de-configure this just fix the actual problem.

Injector(s) then Unplug them one at a time until you find the one that doesn't alter the already poor running.

Anything over 10mph would've been enough tbh so you've got a current problem. You've deffo not done something silly like force a connector in back-to-front?

The ABS system is self adapting so if a problem is declared "present" at startup the lights will remain on until the system detects it has been resolved. I am assuming you've taken it for a drive and the lights still remain on?

Check the connections in the arch areas then matey. You may have got one not plugged in properly

Did you unplug them at all or damage one when removing the gearbox?

On straight away or after you've started moving? Sounds like you've knocked a wheel speed sensor or reluctor ring

Any misfires being detected in EODB on any cylinder(s)?

Earth - Electrical Ground UCH - Renault abbreviation for the body control module

Boo, that's not nice is it. I would say first of all to check you have good earths for the vehicles electronic systems and then check to see if there are any signs of water leaking in to the cabin on the left side of the vehicle. It appears to be a UCH fault but it is a tricky one to diagnose...

Just because it was changed last year doesn't mean the tensioner hasn't seized (It shouldn't have but it's not un-common especially if the arch liners are damaged/missing). It is more likely to be a PAS fault but if it's worrying you get it looked at and properly diagnosed as aux belt faults...

Yep, new barrel is the most likely fix for this but I *believe* you can strip the tumbler so it may just need a strip, lube and clean. Mick

No, you're fixing your sights on something that may not be an accurate feed (I don't personally rate Snap-On diagnostics on French cars) or it may even be a knock-on effect. The CTS value is a baseline parameter so if the coolant temperature is not going above 50 degrees, no matter how long the...

Worth checking the condition of the three main earth points to: 1 - Battery to chassis 2 - Gearbox to chassis 3 - Engine loom to gearbox (Rear of Dif) Mick

Correct, they don't have an IACV and the throttle plate acts to counter stalling (No, you cannot adjust this so don't try). Sounds more like you have an air leak somewhere on the inlet track or possibly another issue with something electrical. Mick

The coolant temp not reaching more than 50 degrees is the first issue to resolve. Are you sure the live data can be trusted (eg. its not taken from some dodgy Chinese piece of eBay crap)?

Yeah its pretty normal and depends greatly on the thermostat in there so as long as it's not up and down like a yo yo and the coolant temp isn't allowed to drop below 83°c then the thermostat is just regulating temp. That gauge is also inaccurate and when it's dead central the coolant temp can...

If its bang on half way when stood in traffic and then slowly falls to the second mark when driving again (and doesn't move again until traffic) then that's normal.

Make sure you've not got water ingress first otherwise any repair/replacement will be short lived

Could be a few things Tom from a minor injection or ignition issue or it could just be that the car needs a proper service rather than just an oil and filter change. Mick

I always have my iPod plugged in on earphones when I have to drive any further than Donnington. Must be hilarious seeing some ginger yoof in a Clio screaming "I'm every Woman" like it's an X-Factor audition.

No you can wear them providing you can still hear and are aware of your surroundings.

The standard tCe clutches are just terrible anyway and I had to do ours after 23k due to the pressure plate not being able to hold standard power/torque. New unit and it'll be okay again for a few years but on a modified car you would be better off with something uprated however you need to...

Temp sensor is another possible but I'd still want to know the coolant system has been correctly bled. A thermostat (when faulty) won't normally cause a rapid spike on the temp gauge needle (it will normally be a slow falling movement).

One on the 172/182 on the side of the stat housing. Sometimes, if there's a stubborn airlock you have to remove the coolant temp sensor but that's not normally an issue. The cable tie around the sensor btw is normal and nearly all 182's have this.

The entire bleed process was wrong. You should never open a bleed point with the engine running. Open all bleed points (if more than one) Remove cap from coolant reservoir Ensure car is on a flat/levels surface Fill reservoir slowly until air free flow is observed from bleed point. Replace...

Yeah pop on over, will gladly give you a genuine opinion. www.diamondmotors.net Mick

Well that's wrong to start with then.