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Nice, as said before give the caliper carrier slides a check. Mine were seized when I bought the car, and I nearly went through the windscreen once I'd fixed them. I drilled the countersunk screws heads off, the screw is only necessary to locate the disc until the wheel bolts are in. That said...

Now that mine isn't my daily, its 270 quid a year for tax, and 700 quid a year for insurance, so an expensive toy really. It's my only car, I commute every day (even in winter) on a motorbike now.

Yeah, it is logical if you can afford to run the thing. It's a much more enjoyable car on the road to be honest. It makes sense to get a couple of autosolos and such in in the 1.2 for now I guess, and then move to the 172 before you sink much money into the 1.2. That said, a set of stiff springs...

Also, you'll need a navigator, so if you can find someone thin, that'll balance you out!

I don't think you'd struggle as much as you think in a 172. Also, the suspension is very different on the 172, so your spares package won't transfer over as well as you might hope. To be fair though, especially in a 1.4 you might never want to move up to a 2.0. The 1.4 classes usually have a few...

Yeah, ultimately it's up to you. If you can afford a 1.4, do that, if you can afford a 172, even better, they're a much different car. Certainly wouldn't get a 1.6 though.

Not in terms of how you would build one really. 12 car cars usually have big lights, since they're at night. I've got some big KC spotlights for 12 cars. There is a class break at 1400cc. So if you have a 1.4 you'll be top of that class. If you have a 2.0 litre, you'll be top of the upper class...

Here's one of mine at the same event

Buying a 1.4 would probably be less effort to be honest, they are cheap as chips. Rally the current car, it's only if you're doing full stage rallies you'll need a cage. If you want to do things like the Abingdon stages and the likes, you'll need a cage, but you'll also need FIA approved, in...

Back seats weigh less than a cage, especially if you strip the frames out of the seats so its just the cushions. A cage is also largely pointless, since you wont go over at more than about 30, and you wont be in a helmet. Also, most of your other mods would be transferable if you decided to...

Ha ha I did a wheel bearing in a narrow single garage and it was awful... Things that tend to go on the 172's are wishbones, driveshafts and ball joints. I'm looking to make a batch of cup racer style uni ball holders for the 172's, since I work for a reverse engineering company, so wouldn't be...

Yeah... I can't stress the importance of a good spanner check before events enough. The track car and stage rally cars I helped run at uni always used to get a full spanner check before they ran in anger, and maybe once in every 5 or 10 times, you'd find something untoward.

Loctite. Autocorrect strikes again

It's good practice as they are nylocs. Since mines a competition only car and gets spanner checked regular, I usually just put a little locate on there.

I've always used a long socket on mine, but first time I took them off when I bought the car I used an air impact gun... If you've got access to one at all (neighbour or friend) it makes it much more pleasant

Is it a 12 point socket or a 6 point (is it hexagonal or 12 point star shaped)? I would advise 6 point on anything that's super tight and super hard to get undone. If the nuts rounded, God only knows what crimes your going to have to commit to get that off! The nuts on a 172 are 30mm for sure.

They were good, although very prone to the surface changes. In the smooth parts the car cornered like a house fly, but I had to be careful when the grip levels dropped, as the tyres would drop off as you would expect. I dont think the grip levels were noticeably worse than standard road tyres...

Have a look at the rear wheel bearings for play, and the rear axle bushes. Check the handbrake works both sides. Check for any obvious bending or other damage or corrosion, but other than that there's not a lot going on on the rear.

Fair, yeah I didn't think about the possibility of flipping on soft suspension! I've had a few sets of very bad tyres, so I usually stay away from anything old and cracked. I was lucky enough to leave on the same set I arrived at last Sunday, some second hand Nankang NS2R's, although I did have...

Aha yeah amount of times I've strapped myself in with the door open! I forgot to mention tyres, but I would even go as far as to say that tyres are the first place to start, presuming the suspension is in fully working order. You'll want a good set on the front at the very least, and a couple of...

You need to leave them all in for 'solos, targas and 12 cars but you can swap the fronts for race ones, take the rear seatbelts out and remove the sound deadening. You have to have door cards, but they can be the thin sheet race ones. Most of the cheap new seats have a steel frame, are...

I have some Recaro Pro Kevlar seats I got for 100 quid on ebay, which everyone I know is saying is the bargain of the century. I love them, they're really good for holding you in, and they look great. I'd invite you to take a look, but you're in wales and im in the south east england aha! I put...

Boot catch and rear lights is likely to be either a missing gasket, or a damaged one. Repair by finding a good gasket (I have no idea where from) or bodge with silicone sealant... Could find a passenger door seal from a scrapper and put it in to try?

Putting bucket seats in mine made a very large difference to the feel of the car, and probably took quite some weight out. I would recommend changing the brake fluid as well. Doesn't need to be anything special, most on here use ATE blue. Make sure carrier slides are properly greased, and there...

Looks very nice, always loved the RB with stripes. Still remember watching the top gear episode about it, back when I was only 7, and loving the car! Really love watching back that episode now I have one...

OP just give him a budget. He's not going to try and screw you, as there's an amount you're prepared to spend, and an amount he's prepared to let a car go for. If your budget doesn't buy you as much car as you were expecting, walk away. It is as simple as that, and saves him wasting his time...

By the sounds of it Bloke has many cars for sale and wants to know roughly your budget so he can only send details of the cars close to that budget. At the end of the day, if you don't like his prices, just say no and walk away. Disclosing your budget won't put his asking price up or down I...

As others have said, totally depends how much time you've got, how much experience you've got and whether you want to actually build the car. My advice would be to go with a built car, since it will be cheaper in the long run, unless you actually want to do the building of it. Extra sets of...

Brilliant, yeah thanks for the advice! I'll come and see you some point in the day as well. Unfortunately my nav cant drive, so no chance of sending him out first... Cheers.

Yeah, I'm car 39. Never been to Wethersfield before, so looking forward to it. Glad to hear it's a power venue, the clio should do quite well with luck. How is it for bumps? Nice, I got an invite for the BMCCC at an autosolo a while back, but couldn't commit to it unfortunately. See you there!