Search results

£30 - £35 depending on number of cars, same as it is every time.

Contitech is absolutely fine.

A C16valver meet, but always open to Cliosport lot to help raise the numbers :) Just write on the list here and ill update it to keep it in sync with the one on C16v forum. 1. Bass - Clio 16v Turbo (Clio16valver.co.uk) 2. Peter - Clio 1.8 16v (Clio16valver.co.uk) 3. JayKay - Clio 2.0 16v...

I think it looks awsome, very nice car dude, i dont think its makeing the power you've been told though, it should be terrorising 2nd gear?

Paranoid, if they were tight its fine.

Take it on the chin, bin it and get something decent.

No i used pattern part valves, so i blame it on that, but it happens to people on renault valves aswell.

Mine dropped 2 exhaust valve heads aswell, same cylinder too!

Mines holding up fine with ~300ft lb. I think these boxes suffer from damage from rushed gearchanges and old oil rather than stripping gearsets from the actual torque you push through them.

Oh and my only real concern of the above setup is the fuel that is dumped into the OE swirl pot will be drawn back into the pump straight away on a continous loop until its actually used by the injector meaning the same fuel will see many cycles to the engine and back and through the pump, which...

More even pressure fuel pressure across all cylinders (stops cyclinder closes to gearbox from leaning out on higher boost applications, which i believe some tuned meg 225's suffer from, same as corsa VXR's too). Im using a ph2 housing, but in a way that the return line just dumps fuel through...

It need not be expensive if you can do some of the work yourself. Im sat at ~300bhp with a £200 jouirnal bearing turbo and a £180 set of pistons and rods.

I just bought some of those Renparts lights, they are made by Depo and are good quality.

Logic dictates that if you have changed the sensor for new and the fault code persists, you either have a faulty new sensor, or a wiring loom problem. I'd go with the loom...

Loom fault (chaffed wire, corroded, snapped, dirt in connector) i had the same problem.

Just modify the phase 2 housing for a return.

172 bottom end, Meggy 225 pistons and rods, ARPs, new oil pump, shells, gaskets e.tc and PH1 cylinder head. Full closed loop ECU boost control. Produced 275bhp / 260lbft at actuator pressure 0.75bar. Full power set to 1.25bar approx 330bhp.

High boost now mapped, some very good results achieved indeed, results soon :) like a kid at christmas waiting to pick it up :d

Just had a google, Autoglym Hii-Foam Interior shampoo looks like it may be worth a punt?

Just got a repalcement set of seats but want to clean them up as much as possible before swapping them over. I know nothing about interior valleting. I dont own a wet vac or anything like that, is there some effective method useing products i can pick up off the shelf? Thanks!

I've got the Dell 29" U2913, i farking love it :)

FLOL i can relate to this so well! I am often sat at traffic lights flailing my arms and fists about at every piece of interior trim within reach to stop annoying rattles lol!

Latest revision

3/8 indeed, had to buy my socket off ebay.

Where'd the turbo come from? Thats the only other T28 turbo with a .42 AR compressor cover apart from my own, that i've seen.

Had two of my Mk1 clios broken into that way, i share your pain.

Sounds like your UCH is playing up

Looks awsome!! :) Just FYI, you can do away with the oil breather filter altogther, the cap on the Mocal tank is completely breathable.

I know its not utilised on mine.

You can soon tell from the cringe'worthy noise it makes when VVT engages, i mistook it foor the alternator vibrating loose, i quickly realised it wasnt that and cried a tear lol. I dont know if its actually distorted any of the inlet valves in the end, might compression test it at some point.