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Cut the guy some slack maybe hes used the wrong method but achieved the correct end results. as long as the crank pin slots in and the horshoe goes in at the same time then all is good.
If its not running right maybe youve missed a sensor that needs to be plugged in theres a few you need to...
If you go for a custom setup, stick with 2" pipework it will unbdoubtly be easier to route through the engine bay. There would be no gains going bigger.
A dropped valve will stop you in your tracks immediately in a cloud of rattling smoke, and will probably lock the engine up. its not a progressive failure like you describe.
Its ultimately still a small turbo so it just doesnt have the lung capacity to flow large amounts of air and hence dies off at high rpm. But its very effieicnet at low RPM, twin scroll, fast spooling e.t.c that gives it ridiculous torque low down.
At the end of the day they should all trim to lambda 1 off boost when cruising and should retain near stock econemy doing so.
Coops i have replaced with a gasket, but have used better fasteners and braced the downpipe to the engine to stop it flexing against the turbo, if it fails again ill bin it!
i can dig out a copy of Tuner Lite which lets you do the basics, check all diagnostics, ECU paremeters, sensors e.t.c. Tuner Pro you need to get from Ktec.
Im going to go ahead and say you shouldn't be accepting anything less than 0 leakage! I diesel tested my builds none of them have ever passed a drip when left overnight.
Re: Compression Test - What's the easiest way to dissable the injection and ignition
Sod touching anything in the fuse box. The ingition and coils wont be an issue as youve removed it all to access the spark plug holes anyway. Just unplug the 4 injector plugs they are easy to get to.
lmao, wait till you start driving it and the teething issues show their way though, it'll be testing your patience then!!
Just spent 2 hours laying under mine this evening pissing around on it, its second nature now lol