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your moms a wise woman

are they kerbed? cause 600 wont touch a kerb, itll prob need filling and sanding with like p180's

for your wheels id just use high solid gloss black that dont require laquiring. for prepping door bullets, 1500 aint coarse enough tbh for either prepping or flatting primer. only thing 1500 is good for is flatting laquer to remove imperfections you want between p600 or p1200 to prep primer...

pirating your own games using a bit of cardboard put into the tape and recorded with blank tapes on your dads HUGE hifi with twin decks lol

sunroof was leaking, so i stripped it down and found it had already been sealed up, so i tried to seal the outside better and also went over the inside, but today i noticed a big puddle inside the car again. Think im gonna just get rid of the sunroof completely, ill cut out the s**t thats...

doors too far forward (towards the wing) just either needs adjusting (if its bolted to the door or A post), or as someone said above, a good whack with a sledge hammer with a chisel on the hinges to send it back slightly

for sale too here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?636134-Corbeau-Forza-Sport-Bucket-Seats-With-MK-1-Subframes&p=8609859#post8609859

unchopped, chopped looks weird on that

you'll always get imperfections from rattle cans, especially in a solid black. laquer will turn it glossy. either wetflat them out, if its really bad, and polish them up, or paint them all again in a better prepped area, wet floor, dust sheets up etc, spray overalls, latex gloves. funny as it...

oh and one of my wheel bolts wouldnt tighten up properly, it was just spinning, is that a new drum? or something inside the drum ill need too?

i agree mate, but they came with the car, brand new, brand new tyres all round too, done about 5 miles on em i think when theyve been powdercoated black you wont really see em tbh, thats what im hoping anyway lol

back wheels finally back on and off axle stands! wheels are gonna be powdercoated gloss black eventually N/S quarter filled n primed N/S door ready to prime, will do that tomorrow and o/s door ready to prime, will also do that tomorrow woohoo, fillerwork done, fun bits now, prime...

appreciate the effort, but that red on the dask looks f**king vile mate!, do not like that miss my phase 3, used to love that car, mine was a 1.4 maxim some inspiration for ya http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/Final_Maxim/car7.jpg...

f**k me, its too hot to be rubbing filler down! ok, N/S rear quarter ready for primer i think the filler at the bottom of the drivers door is the only fillerwork left to do, so f**king pleased its all done, gone through a fill tin! drivers door ready to prime except the filler at the...

small update of yesterdays work window recess painted outside, gonna spray inner tailgate today, then window can go back in wing filled n repaired, other one was done aswell, both ready to prime then paint the wing edges ready to refit How messy i am! so yesterday i managed to...

yeah, heres a 205 Dimma in Glacier, looks so shiny!

which white would you choose to respray your car? Ford Diamond White Vauxhall Glacier White Honda Championship White Best looking is probably the glacier and championship, diamond is more creamy cheapest is diamond or glacier, can pick up 3litres, (hardener included) for about £50...

if the colours patchy then youre starting over, if the laquers patchy, as in dry/wet/dry then it may be salvagable

nope i played these

give it a light sand all over in a few days with some P2000/P2500 or P3000 then buff it back up if you got some cutting compound, will be alright if you put 3 decent coats on

how many coats of laquer did you use and did you dust it on or did you put it on pretty wet? and by wet i mean it looks like water laying on the strip

if applying heat, they should be good in a few hours after cooling off if youre air drying, leave them overnight/24 hrs and theyll be fine just be careful when putting them back on as even if they have been oven baked, they can still leave slight fingermarks in them, so take care

just got one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Disposable-Hooded-Spray-Suit-Overall-Size-Large-/220792346164?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&hash=item33683fd634 box of these...

paint strainers/mixing stick basecoat dont have hardener in, just thinners, just ask where you buy the paint what the ratio is, its usually between 1:1 and 2:1 laquer is mixed with hardener, usually 4:1 sometimes 5:1 with 10% thinners and you can probably paint 4 wheels with 1/2 a litre...

agree with you, unless theres some chips close to the wings, then might aswell blow it in

why?

thats what im saying a big place that dont struggle for work and can have huge labour costs would charge alot more than a small company who dont have huge overheads and may struggle to get the work. someone who works for theirself or only has 1 or 2 workers could knock that out for around...

IIRC, they have these baths of liquid and on top they place the film of choice, in this instance, you would have a thin film of "carbon fibre". you then dip the item into the bath and spin it to the shape, then take it back out to dry. requires skill, but if done properly, it looks pretty good

you can wet flat are the chips individually, get some touch up paint mixed with laquer and fill them in, then give them another flat once dry and polish them up, but you'll still see the chips slightly

i wholeheartedly disagree with the whole " you get what you pay for " when it comes to spray painting. ive been at numerous places, small garages and the work has been absolutely top notch, wheras ive worked at HUGE companies and the work has been a dogs dinner. i would seriously advise just...