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Have a Ph1 172 I only use for track.
Thinking of removing the ABS and fitting cup set up.
I know mechanically I need cup master cylinder and rear compensator valves from cup for correct bias. After that I need to fab up some lines.
Question is, does this affect ecu or any electronics?
Is...
Hi all, I have my car fairly well Stripped back.
I had simply looped the heater matrix hoses (1x at back of thermostat & 1x runs off main bottom hose to rad)
Question is, can these simply be deleted and blocked off at each end or must the be looped?
It would get rid of excess hosing and leave...
As title say. I have a Ph1 172 and the top steering column bearing is gone.
Is the Ph2 column or any others interchangable to the best of anyones knowledge?
Any advice would help as need back on track guys
Cheers bud. Genuinely appreciate it.
I always think by fettling and trying to improve you learn more and can apply it elsewhere. New ideas, new tools, new skills.
I don't have a build thread but will try and get a walk through up.
Old pic.
Track car only, just a bit of fun with time on my hands to fettle with it so may as well make it as good as I can.
Track hero? No, just trying to improve each time. I race Autograss where weight etc is all important so I relay that to track toy too. Best of both worlds and a non road...
Check, cut, start... One wire at a time.
All airbag wiring should be easily identified with yellow plugs. Never cut a number of wires together, you may need to rejoin them
Most people fit suspension parts without realising that they need preloaded.
Tightening all flexible joints with the car in the air instead of preloaded joints by jacking axle to support weight of chassis under load then tightening. Makes huge difference
Can't identify springs bud unfortunately.
Don't follow with the 6mm gap, can you elaborate?
Honestly can't believe how much she's lifted. Must get it weighed!
Was originally, I removed them to lower it more and she's still about 40mm between tyre and arch. Was thinking of full rear coilovers.
Car is physically as light as I can get it and she's lifted quite a bit. Need to get her back down
Hi all, I have a Ph1 172 for track only that is extremely well lightened. This obviously has left the chassis riding higher than before. I'm running 15's with 888's.
What would be a good recommended (based on experience) height between arch and tyre back and front.
Many thanks in advance
Yep, box coming out as have a clutch/box problem anyhow.
Had to replace engine earlier in year (161000 miles) so gearbox could probably do with being freshened up also.
Going well though for a very tired chassis.
Appreciate feed back lads
Hi all, need to take the box off my Ph1 and have been told the 129 box off the cup is a good upgrade?
Can anyone provide some info on this ref gearing and acceleration differences please?
Any experience in this having changed?
Many thanks in advance
I'll have to have a look into it, maybe flash it up on the forum for advice.
Have to admit, building the Autograss car to extremely strict (because of junior racing) rules makes the Clio a more attractive proposition.
If it turns out to be clutch only i'll probably uprate, the slicks would have...
Not at all, every time i have to strip something I find something new to cut away!
Won't get a chance to get to Clio for another couple of weeks as Brads Autograss car has to be finished for next Sat (10th Sept) for his 1st race.
Was thinking of a 129 box but to be honest, i'll be happy enough...
OK, so gearbox problem (possible clutch).
Will be removing box anyhow from Ph1 with 161000 miles on it.
Chances are a clutch problem but when it's out anyhow, which would be the best box if I need a replacement?
I have read the 172 cup box (129) is the way forward, can anyone give more info...