Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
See if the device you are taking the pictures on is set to a lower resolution?
Yup the arches are the limiting factor unless you want to cut them back. I think overall though the change to sepherical bearings and better suspension geomtry will be night and day, well I say better I havnt...
Its a straight swap but takes a bit of force to get them off, 100% worth the effort imo. I found one for 16 quid a while back
Where abouts are you in essex?
Some big changes to be made! So you will be using those mounting brackets on the bcs.. And do you have alignment settings in mind? If It was me Id be going for a lot of caster, but I know you use manual steering which will make the steering even heavier, as the increase in mechanical trail...
Im convinced it can come off intact tbf so am going to buy another gearstick 😁 I was thinking of using some acetone to soften the glue, as its a knurled shaft it should being able to penetrate the glue. Then just protect and twist carefully. Worth a try? Ill just hang it upside down and let it...
Well got it off. Twisting it destroyed the leather but it peeled off and the insides was still intact so I peeled back the rubber and twisted the plastic which got it off. Its the leather that screws things, I could of cut the stitching off the leather and taken it off intact
Im going to clamp it and sledge hammer the knob off and make sure its attached with some string to me so when/if it flies off It'l wont go into the neighbors garden
Currently fitting the yanoo stiff shift but obviously my gear stick has the one piece shell thing rather than two so gearknob has to come off. Threads years ago say hack it off, new thread says twist and hammer so what should I do? I couldnt give it a proper hammer because its way too late or am...
While its out then might as well. Although I didn't notice a drastic change its worth it, Im just about to put my abs back in and have found both my 182 and 197 cylinders so Im going to just put the 197 back in
@1985michael182 I have a spare loom, so cut the crimps off to put into the fuse box and crimp, then de pin the factory earth into the plug pic related. How can I crimp the fuse holder ones? I
Thanks mate. One other thing, that fuse box for the power wire, how is that a fuse? A thin piece of metal? Because Ive taken the dash wiring for the ecu power from another loom and think I can splice them together and do what you did
@1985michael182 Ive wired up the controller box now bar the black wire (12v ignition feed) I dont understand it, so a wire that is fed power when you turn the key? So nearly every wire under the dash??
Trust me if there was an easier way I would do it. Garage is near a foot higher than the ground, the ground before the garage is basically a 45 degree cliff face. One day Ill have an empty costco warehouse to do this stuff!
Managed to get the boot off the bulkhead plug to install the power wire for the epas (waiting on this just yet), you can see its the big clip missing. Also have a spare dash loom so have been taking that apart to grab an earth and to see whats what for future loom stuff.
Official first...
With the right crimp tools and such you can. Ive litterely just crimped my first fitting today o_O
Also this slows down things a bit, very little storage space as well
@GrahamS Sorry for all the questions. Its just Im not sure where the brown plug can go, if its bigger than all the other wires then its the bigger than the wires that go to the battery ( from the fuse box)