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@VenomUK I think I got mine from here but it a bit ago now. It was the 110 euro one which is now out of stock. I reckon the ebay ones are similar although people have said they can pack up. Mine sometimes shuts off but can last a long time when plugged in...

@Gus Thats a good shout but I think its coming out the middle as well. This one has truly destroyed me, even the muscles in my face are tired

Fluid was pouring out of the black line when I hooked up the bleeder (tyre set to 20psi) I tried to tighten it up more which It did go but it kept getting tighter yet it was already stupidly tight, fluid still poured out. Ive to my enjoyment taken off the rez to get proper access and completely...

Depends on the tester, mine failed and others have failed to

@Gus Appreciate the write up mate but Im prepared with the ez bleeder and fluid already! I did this procedure bar with clip a while back but since getting rid of abs Ive decided to put it back in so its fully dry! But what you said about bleeding at the same time while activating clip is...

Those that have done this, did you 'fully' bleed the system first then activate the pump and do another bleed after? And is it straight forward in clip or any precuations I should take?

It has a use by date? Does it have adhesive inside?

So I got carried away a bit and I hate my self for it. I decided to clean up and paint everything that was coming off because 'might aswell while its off' Servo was really rusty, I sanded it back and all the other brackets and such, then a coat of kurust, primer then simonez tough satin black...

Theres more space in the engine bay with a v8 than there is standard

Dont blue balls us with 2 pictures mate come on :ROFLMAO:

Tescos overflow carpark? I went to one near me to give it a quick alignment before

Under the strut bar where the fuse box is. Also can just run an inline filter from the rez to the pump if you want to use an aftermarket one. My advice is dont invest in the hpas because it will probably s**t itself and you'll go epas

They are just drying after 4 good coats of zinc primer. Bought some Hammerite Kurust as well which was really easy to use. Do I just wait until the primers dried then spray on the top coat? Because at the back of the can it said wait 24 hours?

A bit too far for me, 5 hours one way o_O

Just put more on the right side yourself then take it back to re do toe free of charge since they only did half the job?

Have you tried to stand on the breaker bar? I doubt they would round anyway.

Bigger gun

Whats the best way to get them as smooth as possible without slaving away? Ive gone over them with the stone attachment but its a little rough in places.

Instead of making another thread. Ive been cleaning up the top mounts using bilt hamber deox c, small stone attachment and wet n dry but Im not sure the best way (no powder coating) to paint them to last good. Reason ive stripped them back to raw metal and they start to 'rust' so I dont want to...

@Mbeau Thanks mate but I had ordered one already. I cant get a lift in the next couple days either otherwise I thought you might have one. @Gus Cliosport advice means always do the exact opposite right? :ROFLMAO: Im going to take apart the odd one too see whats what, Id like to have a crack...

Am in the process of rebuilding them but want a matching oem pair ideally. They both say bosch but is it the rounded handbrake lever that came from factory?

I watched these a while back, may give you some ideas

All I can say is that with the inlet design you should be able to run very short pipework, should be a very concentrated setup

Well its on other mk2 clios (similar) and twingos so I guess its oem. But no one would ever know, its hidden behind the boot and can barely be seen from the engine bay.

Not a quick and easy job but not the hardest, just the usual cramped and buggered elbows getting the column out then you need to wack the ends off, again for me I didnt really have the tools so botched a spanner with a breaker bar and hammered the spanner, you can see where its left marks. Hard...

Its the rubber in the lower uj, you need to either weld it solid or use a twingo lower uj, can also use the clio epas column lower uj, I assume its very similar to the twingo one but looks a bit different though. Night and day difference.

Its like somones edited all the colour out in photoshop

Money laundering

@k5cub Have you any pictures of the clio you could post up mate?

You will have to de pin the unnecessary wires from that white plug into the ecu otherwise the power to the column will shut off. This happened to me dont know about others