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Just confirmed that the 2 wires (orange and green) from the plug are dodgy as the prongs in the actual ecu are giving readings. Will report back shortly
Im not sure if these are (bad) results Im looking for?
Just turned the ignition on and the ecu does infact make a big clunk. These are the wires that are having problem, 2 okay the other 2 (orange and green) nothing
Im not sure what to check? The fuse isnt blown, the earth is built into the loom and bolted down. The multimeter picks up that theres power at the plug. White wire is earthed, black wire powered from cig lighter, other 4 wires are in and plugged into the column. Ill double check but dont know...
Wheels on the ground, 12v wired up to a different thicker wire (cig lighter wire) And nothing. Ive checked the power going to the epas ecu and I think its fine, I put the prongs in and out and it shoots up to 12v ish then back down. The epas ecu doesnt make any noise when you turn the ignition...
@1985michael182 Thanks Mike, Ive posted here because cant do pictures from phone (old as god)
Is this wrong? I dont know what the 12v for the controller is supposed to join to
In the air, well the rear tyres are resting on bricks the front is in the air. Both of those wires are the oem ones and I know that the earth is bolted down.
Have got the rack and subframe on, alternator on and epas all wired up, started the car up which was nice and smooth but I have no power to the steering so the next problem to solve.
Yanoo stiff shift, I had to sand down the plastic ball and cups in the metal housing as it was too tight on side...
Just turned car on and no power steering. How do I check whats not working? And I put the 12v black wire that powers the small box to the wire that powers the dash lights brightness, too clarify it goes to a power wire that is from a switch or something that only works when the cars on??
Whats the going rate for the bosch ones these days? I see on ebay about 50 quid but want to make sure I buy the correct one.
Also how in CLIP can I see whats going on with it?
So its nice and smooth now, I sanded it all back but more so on the sides, still a tiny bit of a notch but tbf with the weight of the gears it will probably be a good thing
Cant say for 13k but my rose joints went through over a year easily and through a winter and were perfectly fine, I changed them just as a precaution but didnt need to
Having a few problems if anyone had these? So once its all in the housing and the circlip is in, which at first using the small o ring was too tight and the gearstick couldnt move without alot of force. Ive taken the o ring out and lightly sanded the plastic ball, as on side to side movement...
Honestly I cant say but its what I would (want) do, I have rose jointed tie ends but standard lowers.
I have the laguna/cup racer uprights, I need the sepherical lowers for them and its getting the coilover sorted to suit the 65mm spacing which is the hassle.
I remember a thread talking about this. Just 'taking it easy' for 100 miles is not the right thing to do and there actually needs some heat in them, its just they cant tell you do heavy stops on public roads
Just got this in the post, the pulley is bent a bit so I cant move it over, you can see the belt touches the plastic cover. I have my other 182 alternator but the pulley is a different size, does that matter? And how do you get them off with a gun?
Also regarding tension, how much movement...
60 quid for a new pump? You will have fun swapping that over.
I havnt tried mintex oem but I wouldnt expect a 20 odd quid road pad to feel very good. If you brake as hard as you can from say 50 what happens? Abs kicks in and you stop? If you want better feel then get a better pad.