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Does anyone know of a discount code for HEL Performance?

Or 'the good lady put it out for recycling in a post birth haze!'

Oh it can just go missing! I had an immaculate low mileage ph1 that my other half 'filed' the entire history to. The only thinking is that she accidentally picked it up in a pile of recycling when having a clear out😫

My 182 was the same, also hadn't been repaired.

Beams looking good! I've been playing on the HEL brake line configurator, what fittings did you use at either end? Male 90° swivel but which female? Finally what lengths would you go with now you've got these?

That's my PA while I'm grafting away at work😆

You're quite correct, the ones olive ordered from KAY's are M8 1.25 thread!

I can't see either way being a problem, theres a whole lot less rust there than there was which can only be a good thing.

Stonking mate! Always listed over a gunmetal Valver when I had my Naples Red, what was the actual name for that colour?

BH website says not to use Electrox over Hydrate 80 as it is designed to be in contact with the bare metal

Wasn't there even less 172's registered in the uk? I think I'm right in saying 172 cups were by far the most numerous model

@big_fuel tank removal guide worked a treat thanks! On reassembly did you replace the foam tank pad, the black plastic outer casing on mine is perished

How the hell have I measured twice now and come up with my figures? Well confused

I'm glad I took the tank out, there was a small amount of corrosion disappearing out of view under it but quite a few spots all over the floor pan. The plastic casing of the foam tank pad has totally disintegrated, unsure whether to wrap it in plastic to stop the foam retaining water or not.

It's all pretty much going to be behind the fuel tank and around the rear beam area so dynax ub would be the final finish in any case, so you think it'll be ok? Just that I've run out of electrox and I really want to crack on.

Look at this for rust trap that in a 172 is near to inaccessible, no problem on a 182 due to the boot floor.

Surely that isnt the length if doing away with the standard short flexible lines

I'm doing some under body restoration, is in necessary or even advised to cover hydrate 80 in electrox or would it be acceptable to go straight over hydrate 80 with dynax ub?

This is a carbon copy of what I'm dealing with right now, those deep sections in front of the spring seats are a PITA

Said it before but imagine the engine internals, many years of condensation 😖

Having just taken my rear beam and fuel tank out I bet there is a fair amount of corrosion under there.

Continued my love affair with the knotted wheel and my grinder and a slosh of BH Hydrate 80, I really should start and back date a project thread.

A sand blaster would be great right now

I've been using a knotted wheel but I cant get in to the boxed areas by the upper spring mount

I refurbed mine and went back to silver after previous owners red, looks much better. Bigg Red refurb kit?

Got the tank out, not as bad of a job as I thought really and that was a half full tank on my own, did snap one bolt off though. Bit more rust than I'd hoped for and some of it in inaccessible places, any good ideas other than scraping as best I can then drenching in Hydrate 80?

Not keen on the method of attachment😉

Is that a bubble😬

Oh arse! Guess who just snapped a fuel tank bolt🙁 the outer two are very corroded to the point I can get a 12mm socket on the head.

Thanks! That's a good write up there Steve, unfortunately I've got around 1/2 a tank full due to lockdown🙁 1.5mm thread I presume?