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This is a very good point, and something I'd like to know as I'm trying to source a new/reconditioned rack and can't find a 2.75 DCI one anywhere.
On the old Fiestas the XR2 has a 3.0 turn rack and the base spec was 3.5 turn. Same ratio but the XR had lock stops.
I don't think this is the...
On 205/50/R15 tyres I run it around 575mm from arch to floor all around.
@NorthloopCup runs it a bit lower than me but he has stiffer springs. Mine would be more similar to B14s.
If you run 195/50 tyres then you could go to 565mm.
The lower you go though the more you compromise the angle...
After buying several belt lengths I finally got one to fit perfectly with the PMS delete setup and a larger 80mm alternator pulley, its 905mm in length.
I got my new harnesses fitted, they're nice and snug.
So with that lot done I took it for a drive today without the PAS and without the top...
Mine had done around 3k miles from new assuming it didn't fail some time ago so it might have lasted a lot less than 3k miles. Yes I bought it second hand but the kit was new before I fitted it.
I didn't notice it had broken because the belt hadn't slackened off with the bottom bolt being tight...
I got told no, it's a motorsport part.
It's a really poor design. I understand that its had sections cut out to save weight but it weighs naff all anyway so why weaken it to the point it fails.
It was only a matter of time. Fibre/Polymer composites don't corrode or fatigue. If they are rated highly enough then only a massive impact will brake them and that would generally brake other components anyway.
Known problem. Ordered another.
The solution is to set the tension on the adjuster then after doing up the two mounting bolts on mount as tight as possible just slacken off the tensioner slightly.
I've already got a lightweight battery under the seat. It weighs 6kg +2kg more cable weight. This one is 10kg. So it's still 3kg lighter than standard but only 2kg heavier than the lightweight battery. I gain an extra 22amp/hours and 130 cold crank amps. Which I will need with the astra PAS...
Ok so I haven't had much time to work on the car recently but a little time today got me this far...
Battery in new position, I've got a battery tray to modify to suit. It's wired straight to the starter wiring on the gearbox so it starts very well now. I need to get some alclad sheet to bolt...
I removed my ABS a while ago but one of the plugs is still connected.
The smallest plug is the ABS sensor in the hub, the big plug is to the ABS module. The middle sized one is still connected but I don't know if this goes somewhere where its not needed. The wires one the plug pictured are green...
I did Anglesey last week, new brakes were epic. So much better than the previous setup.
I need to get the photos my mates took. It was nice to be faster than most of the other stuff there and only had to watch out for a couple of Caterham R400s.
When I got home there was lots of squealing on...
It'll be better on a daily than infrequent use. What you need to consider is the CCA and how quickly your car fires up I.e first or second crank rotation
I'll have some brake bells soon (this week I hope) that will fit 283x26mm hi spec rotors with a good amound of swept area, enough for standard sized pads.
With shaving a bit of the pad backing material (0.75mm) off the larger pad size (FCP565) or using the ever so slightly smaller pad (FCP406)...
1. Yes, I'd also look into a different final drive. From theoretical work I've done on ratios the 13/59 final drive is the one to go for with a 39/32 5th gear. Standard 5th is 39/31 whic is too long and I think the 37/33 which often gets fitted could be a bit short perhaps.
2. I'd get the ones...
I've had both the AD08R and the RSR. AD08R is the better tyre in the dry. The RSR is good but it's overstressed on the front of a Clio really and needs lots of camber and stiff suspension.
I was impressed with the RSR in the wet, I haven't had a chance to try the AD08R in the wet yet but they...