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They can bring the top in as well depending on how much camber and how thick the shim is.

They all give very similar peak gains. 421s give more torque lower down but this can affect the idle, 438s try to mitigate this. I'd just go with the cheapest based on what I've seen assuming you plan to stick with th stock manifold.

Sounds standard to me. I had a bit of carpet with some hard board that just covered the spare wheel well. Light weight model ;-)

Run your hand over the surface of the tyre and feel for flat spots. I've had my rears develop flat spots after 30k+ miles rather than wearing out normally. Sounded like bearing noise.

In my experience the rears on a 1*2 last 40k+ with road driving. Mine wore out of shape before going bald. They might just need replacing.

The 421s seem to have a fair chunk more torque between 4000 - 5000 rpm, than the 438s.

Be aware that 2k or 2 pack paints are pretty toxic and you should use a respirator with a clean air supply. Google it. Cellulose paint is far safer for the DIYer if you're going to use a gun.

Thanks Danny.

Here's shot from when I did my 182 cam belt. If I'd realigned the slots I could have slotted a woodruff key in, job done?

Can't you just buy a woodruff key and slot it into the crank and the sprocket, as the std sprocket has a slot machined in anyway? E.g. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX14 Not suggesting this is the right one just thought the picture would help people visualise.

You can probably see the retaining screws if you shine a light down the wheel to spacer bolt holes. You might not need to drill through the spacer at all.

That looks like a good result to me. Especially if the timing is 22 degrees out - how did they know it was out?

You can still re-use the disc after drilling out the retaining screws.

My 182 does it too, exactly as you describe, glad to know it is just the carbon canister.

Was she handing out leaflets for "One Call"? If so she gave me one ;)

I get all 3 (1,5,6) in mine. The 3 doors and recessed buckles are a bit of a pain for the back but no issue really. They're pretty practical cars really.

1*2s with ITBs quite often only make mid 190s even on apparently healthy engines. I agree with you about cams and the RS2 though, I seem to recall even Tom recommended to some people who bought it not to fit it with cams.

I'm sure I remember Matt from TDF saying the std TB was good for over 200bhp when he was looking at producing a similar setup to the RS2.

What about cams (428/438 for example) though, the RS2 doesn't seem suited to cams. All the people on here who've had them fitted have not made any more power than std cams. James' car excluded. If it was as simple as you describe above chip surely they'd make the typical additional 10+ bhp that...

The driven to event thing is quite common in the blue book. Maybe it is for historics or something, they have to keep so strictly to std spec for some regs that removal/addition of steering lock/bonnet pins might contravene other regs...

Steering Q 19.6. If fitted with a steering lock have it rendered inoperative (except for road going vehicles, driven to events). Same for bonnet pins: Q 19.2.6. Other than a road going car, have bonnet security clips fitted. Don't get me wrong, it'd be crazy not to remove steering lock and...

It's the blue book, most of it doesn't make sense and the rest is contradictory ;-)

Blue book says must be removed unless driven to the event.

The OMP one is about 35kg

I've got a ktec stealth. They're pretty quiet, not as quiet as std but it is fine for motorway cruising and not drawing attention to yourself. There is a drone at about 60 but it is gone by 70. Decat makes quite a big difference to noise.

All 172/182 heads have CNC machined ports from the factory.

I just posted in your project. I recently had a similar thing when my rattle cans got cold. They sprayed fine at room temp but it looked like that after the can had been sat in the cold (10C) garage for a few hours.

Were the tins cold? I had this with a spray can, at room temp went on fine but after it'd been in the garage at <10C it sprayed like that.

You can't turn off the auto intermittent bit to make it behave like a manual intermittent. But to turn it on you just move the wiper stalk down 1. It will then wipe when it thinks it needs it.

Interested to know why you chose that route over ITBs?