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Have you had a fault reader on it? How do you know it is running on 2 cylinders? Lambda would be next on my list. Last time mine flashed the EM light it had no faults on the ECU and just had one plug hole full of water from driving through puddles. So it is not necessarily fuel.

I've never gapped mine on the clio, that won't be it.

Good result. Great attention to detail as always.

I got mine out with a 2lb hammer.

I have the 450, 400 track setup and I don't have any problem with under steer. They're not much fun on the road though, too stiff to push on on B roads with confidence. It's the bumps that cause problems with the stiffness. Great on track. Just try it and see what you think.

Thanks :-)

So does the tool have a fixed amount of advance or is it adjustable? Just wondering how much the advance is. You won't improve the idle by advancing the cam timing - as a general rule advancing gives you more power up the rev range at the expense of lower revs e.g. poor idle.

There are no decent before and after figures for cams + the RS2 so you'd be in unknown teritory. The JMS boys had a car with C&B cams that made over 200bhp but all the other graphs I've seen have been below 190 with cams. But unfortunately the before and after graphs are always on different...

I've seen this mentioned in a couple of threads recently. So what is it? I'm guessing a tool to advance the inlet cam a bit? How far can you go and what are the gains?

Head work isn't going to help if the std inlet is the restriction. Will be interesting to see what Fred and co. come up with...

The limit depends on how deep your pockets are. There is a guy in the projects section going for 300 bhp NA.He has a link to a youtube vid of a 279 bhp NA engine made by the same people who are making his engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2B5Lkp0Au8...

You could use the undertray bolt holes I guess. and even use the undertray as a template.

It's a honeycomb coated in the above metals only a few grams. You won't be able to economically recover it at home.

Have you driven it? It sounds fairly normal to me. From my experience it always feels like the pedal is softer than it was but I think it is just that I am stood up outside the car standing on the pedal instead of inside. If there was air in there it wouldn't go hard when you pumped it.

6 point cage is fine even for circuit racing and stage rallys.

I have a janspeed one and it is on a tiny bit louder than std - you can only just notice the difference.

There is a clip around the radiator hose at the front that is bolted to the subframe IIRC. Isn't the heat sheild bolted to the subframe as well or does that just come away? I only lowered mine.

They won't check anything, never have from me. I've had loads replaced. Obviously though don't mention it lol.

You should try the wanted section. I know the 182 has different springs but don't know if they'll fit or not I'm afriad.

As it is in the right place at TDC after rotating it, it is correct.

What class? It affects what you're allowed.

Yes, I'm going through Birmingham so its only 20 miles out of my way.

I'm traversing the country on Sunday so I'm planning to come for the afternoon.

Yes, as good as any other in the dry and amazing wet grip.

I think there is one in the for sale section.

Do you guys have a fuel tank guard?

What did your car make after mapping with the std cams on RS Tuning's rollers?

So is it power the Clio/F4R struggles with? It might fare better in a series that uses power/weight for the class structure.

On my 182 on the longer driveshaft (O/S) the middle boot is leaking oil, I think the boot is damaged rather than loose. So is that an MoT fail? I couldn't remember if only the outer ones are an MoT fail. Thanks Mark

But you've already spent most of the money (cage, RS2, etc). You might as well learn some race craft with what you've got while you save for the "upgrade".