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Would you like the manual? PM me your e-mail. Looking in the manual there are about 50 special tools required. How many are really required though I don't know...

Assuming you haven't changed the rears. Just measure the diameter of the pistons in the new calipers and the old. Then work out the total area ((pi*(diameter/2))^squared) for each setup. If the new setup has a much larger piston area you will need more fluid to push them out. Surely someone...

The conventional wisdom is that the std inlet cannot flow enough air for 200 NA.

It is stopping the arm moving e.g. with cable ties that increases the rear braking effort. Cable tied as in this pick should increase rear effort.

The way the valve works is that the lever is pushed down by a little piston when you press the brake this reduces the pressure to the rears. With the spring in place it acts against this - the spring causes the lever to push back against the piston. Thus if you cable tie the lever up tight...

Self leveling have no little wheel there is a sensor on the rear suspension that it uses to adjust the level. The rules say the little wheel must work though if they are not self leveling.

It did when it left the factory. Near side in space between bumper and front wheel.

With e-mail it is very easy to forge the from address and other sender details and then just slip it onto one of the many open mail gateways out there for forwarding to the recipient.

I wondered about that but the alternator is less than 2 years old and I didn't drive the car much for the last 2 winters and I've had no problem with the battery losing charge.

If I plant the throttle on my 182 in neutral from idle the "stop" and battery/no charge lights come on for about 1/2 a second then go off again. 100% repeatable. Any thoughts? Doesn't seem to do it in gear although I haven't tried from stationary in 1st.

I thought over 190 was normal, both of mine are over 190. Even the 172 at 130k.

Its normal. Mine takes a good few minutes before the higher limit kicks in. Well after temp gauge appears to be up to temp. It is triggered from water temp though as there is no oil temp sensor as std.

I just kind of use the force. I tighten it a bit and if it doesn't squeak I leave it... I recall Matt saying they used to run some of their cars the wrong way round the pump but I guess you need to file a bit off the cover or use a thinner belt to stop the rubbing.

You have gone the wrong way around the water pump with the belt that's why it rubs.

Both mine were over 190 all round, even at 130k on the 172.

Sure you could do it if you got the bits, I think all the holes are there.

I'm sure I read a post by Angelworks Ben that said you could skim 1mm off the head to bump up the compression ratio without making any other mods.

Either. The values aren't very interesting without the engine running but ignition is fine for faults.

scantool.net came with it that's all Ive used so far it is very basic but does the job. I got the driver here http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm.

I got one to see if it was any good. I had to download some drivers to get it to work on Vista, no real instructions. But after that it worked fine. Fault reading/reseting and also live stats like temps, rpm, lambda. That was on my 182.

Hi I've got my high tensile steel bolts but do I need speccial nuts? I was going to use std nylock ones just wondered if they are strong enough, don't recall anyone ever mentioning using special ones. same question for washers as well I guess. Thanks Mark

You could get them to cable tie up the valve to show it is working as normal. If you cable tie it so it can't move the effort to the rears should increase loads. This is what I do for my MoTs.

You need to get it on some ramps and take a look. Could be just about anything to do with front suspension/steering.

Decat won't have any significant effect on carbon dioxide emissions which is what the tax is based on, it is pretty much equivalent to MPG. In fact it would make it emit less carbon dioxide as its main purpose is to change carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide.

I cable tie mine for the MOT, but I have locked the rears with it cable tied up so wouldn't recommend driving it with it like that. Glad you got them to offer a refund.

Great review. I'm starting to get the impression most people only post figures if they get near 200 with ITBs, the rest just don't share.

IIRC all the 1*2 models have different shafts 172 ph1, 172 ph2, 172 cup, 182.

2 more on the other side.

You could show them this web page http://www.renaultsport.co.uk/roadcars/heritage/172cup/. There is a picture of a wheel if you scroll through the pics.

On the rear of the subframe. Two heads visible and two others recessed into the subframe directly above them.