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The bearing should be smooth, some small graining is normal. But if it has seized they will be very badly scored it should be obvious. Make sure you look at the crank journals and not some random knackered bearing they produce. The bottom pulley would not cause that sort of bearing damage.

Have you seen the damage yet?

I don't see how it can lock the pulleys unless I'm missing something.

They were about 120 when I tried from Renault but that was years ago.

I've had the Magnecor red for years. They don't seal the spark plug hole as well as the std ones. Only had a problem once, I was driving through massive puddles to entertain the kids and managed to fill one of the plug holes with water and funnily enough got a missfire. So totally my own fault...

172 yes. 172 cup from factory has jack etc but foam instead of spare wheel.

In a moving car I can't see it making much difference unless the air passes over the exhaust manifold or to a lesser extent the radiator before it hits the intake. On the 1*2 with the exhaust manifold behind the intake in the bay and the air ducting that brings air into the bay behind the...

I've got the Sealey CP2400 24v. Works fine, battery keeps charge for ages.

Probably leaking out of the cam cover bolts. Mine had the same. I put a dab of silicon sealant under the head of each of mine in turn then torqued them back down. Cured it for me.

Are they? I've seen people say they are but I'm sure I remember Fred saying they're not. So which is it? I'm not talking about ph1/ph2/182 differences I mean will I have problems with the cam bearings in the head not matching closely enough the ones in the cover? Thanks

You're right, I hadn't read the regs that closely.

My ktec one had shorter springs and bots than the original which made it a pain to get the nuts on the bolts.

My 172 cup has a rear tow eye under the bumper. It is attached to the spare wheel well though which 182s don't have...

Track Day Trophy have a 200bhp/tonne limit. You'll be near that with a std engine with the strippage you have. You can add ballast though.

I think the 172 ph2 box has slightly lower ratio final drive, so would accelerate slightly faster. But whether you could notice this or not is up for debate :-)

I've got it, pm me your e-mail.

My 182 did the same although not quite as hot. They get an internal short in the windings. 2 in a row is bad luck, but for me second hand alternators have always been trouble, same with starter motors.

My 172 cup has never done this in 112k miles that I've driven it, but my 182 did it right from the start. I cured it for a while after getting the tracking done. Back with a vengeance now after a kerb incident ;-)

Like this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Performance/Electrical/Battery_Isolators_&_Master_Switches/Cartek_Solid_State_Battery_Isolator_Kit/1261/1438.

I've had loads of hassle with mechanical cut off switches I'd go with a solid state job like burp has if your budget will stretch.