Search results

I've got a sealey one. One of the best tools I've ever bought. Obviously it's not snap on quality but mega useful.

I've got one on my 182. Almost as quiet as standard, the difference is barely noticeable. Never boomy. I'd definitely recommend it as a quiet exhaust.

Cambelt kit 130 Head set 100 head bolts 30 ish cam seals 10 ish 8 new inlet valves as a minimum repair around a 100 plus various other bits and bobs e.g. coolant New engine is probably your best bet. For 400+ I'd expect the engine to have history and recent cambelt, check out the for sale section.

At the very least the ecu would need reprogramming as ph2 has DBW throttle body where as ph1 as cable. It may not be possible.

If they remove the valve you'll have way to much rear brakes.

This would be a great track day to get you started if you're free http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?646867-Burpspeed-Llandow-trackday-Wednesday-26th-September-%A385!!!!

Have you tried GT width ones? Your best bet would to be to go to somewhere like Demon Tweeks in Wrexham and try them out.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Yes I'm hoping to race. I finished getting the new engine ready today, will hopefully drop it in tomorrow evening.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Mallory is the 26th of August, Sunday of the bank holiday weekend.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Nice write up. You're making me wish I'd come even without my car. Was at my Mum's on the Wirral so was only 1.5 hours away...

I've got that foam and it is not what you would expect from "foam". It is more like plastic sheeting. A scrutineer told me to get door cards to cover all the sharp edges in case you get a limb caught in there in an incident.

http://www.picturemoi.com/clioproject/Teilekatalog_Clio_II_Cup_2005.pdf Pics of the mounts in the above.

Solid red light means connectivity issue rather than immobiliser fault. You're probably correct about a broken wire. Have a search there have been a fair few like this recently. Where the loom goes over the gearbox you can get broken wires in there. Which results in similar problems to what...

He had a project thread. http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?584395-Hunting-big-power I guess it was fake or he is still hunting the 280+ bhp he was after.

I'd suggest you go to the dealer and get them to pull up the exploded view of the rear disc, should be fairly easy to spot. There must be pics on here. BIGASH had a thread recently about getting his rear discs off and I think he had pics.

On a 1*2? There is a spacer/washer that goes behind the disc. People often forget to put them back on. If it is missing it leads to the kind of symptoms you're describing.

Unless you're in the know though. It is very difficult to know when pattern parts are ok or not.

Ktec have genuine cambelt kit for 130 and genuine headset for 100. When I was looking around a couple of weeks ago pattern parts were no cheaper. Head bolts are 76 on ktec for genuine but I did find them for around 30 quid from ecp etc.

Good luck

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Good luck for tomorrow/sat.

I'm swapping my engine over. Old engine had cams new engine doesn't but my ecu is mapped for the cams. Does any one have a copy of the std map for a 172 cup/172 ph2 that they could e-mail me a copy of? That would allow me to run the car without worrying about the mapping until I get time to...

Didn't realise the ecu was that cheap. How much of the loom would get replaced for that though? With ITBs there are more differences so was thinking you might get more of the loom replaced for "free". Agree about gear box before power.

Are there any? I seem to recall people saying that there are. But I am fitting a cambelt to a ph1 engine and the bits all look the same as on my ph2 172 cup engine.

Budget busting ideas for you :) Probably worth considering getting TDF to fit throttle bodies with the ECU, might not be much more and would at least save some mapping if you ever plan to fit them in future. I'd also think about a lower final drive while you're getting a diff fitted, don't...

One of the idlers on cam or aux belts failing?

The AD08 are MSA list 1A and the RSR are list 1B. List 1B are typically better for competition than 1A. I'd expect the RSR to be grippier for this reason. I have AD08s but only so I can compete in events that specify list 1A tyres. They are good tyres though...

You can keep the power steering circuit intact and just move it out of the way. But coolant yes.

It's fairly straight forward, nothing special required. It can either come out the top with the engine or on its own out the bottom if you drop the subframe. People say it is easier to pull the engine out - I've only done it that way so couldn't comment on the out the bottom option ;) It is...

I would just get an OEM quality belt from a motor factors. Ktec have a belt for 17 quid. I'd try ECP or Unipart.

You need to get some R888s or similar and take it from there. I wouldn't make any other setup changes until you've got better tyres.