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I've got a janspeed sport and it is only a tiny bit louder than std. The difference is only just noticeable, not boomy.

You don't need a cambelt if it was changed at 140k unless it was over 5 years ago?

I just took the plugs out and turned it over on the starter to get rid the water when one of mine got filled from a puddle. Lol at not on french engines.

The only adjustable tensioner is on the cambelt and he said the noise is only there with the aux belt on, so probably not that. Is it routed correctly? Could be rubbing on something if not. Did you use a new aux belt kit, with new pulleys?

Mine with K-Tec stealth passed no problems.

There is a difference between matching to the head/plenum and removing material for the full length of the manifold. The former is fairly straight forward, with the latter you have to know what you're doing.

I got mine from Curtis/Powerstation from a group buy http://www.powerstation.org.uk/.

I'm sure I remember someone saying some of them have bolts that are larger than 10mm. Might be worth trying some larger sockets.

I've got everything you get from ebay. I wouldn't call it a full manual. PM me your e-mail address for a copy.

Renault only part?

I did get a quote once, Adrian flux it was just over around 400 for me, but I am old etc etc. un-modded clio I get for around 250 limited to 3k miles.

What race series is that then?

What's the issue with the pulley then? What's different with the Megane one?

In the service book. Looks like this: FER19041 Custom Renault job shipped over from Italy to order, takes a couple of weeks!

My rears on the cup wore out of shape after 38k, got flat spots. Loads of tread left. They were budgets as well.

Other way around. My 172 cup and 182 are both 23 and 25.

Glad it worked for you. Good luck with using them as a bias adjuster lol.

De-grease it first, then the jack trick should work. Halfords brake cleaner worked for me.

If you change it after you've run it for a bit the idea is that any crap will still be suspended in the oil and come out rather than settle out and stay in the sump.

195/45 gives 87.75mm tyre profile 195/50 - 97.5 205/45 - 92.25 205/50 - 102.5 So for a 172 going from 195/45 to 205/50 would give you a radius increase of 14.75mm. That works out about 5% so your speedo would under read by that amount.

I've run 195/50R16 A048s without any problems. But you can't get them in 45 profile on 16 inch rims.

I saw in a thread Andyman said he had bad ones and got them swapped for good ones. This thread post 22 http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?540720-Uprated-cams-for-182. You could ask him, though I guess he'll see this thread... If you find out any info make sure you post it up as I'm...

Here's some pics. I've drawn in where I put the cable tie.

You can just remove the wishbone. Unbolt the ball joint, the sub frame and the anti roll bar.

So dyno dynamics calcs the atf power from the run down?

dyno dynamics

On the sort of rr where you have to enter a gear ratio for it to correctly display the rpm on the graph. If they get it wrong then calculating the ATF power figure must also be wrong? Thanks

Mine never came on.

After you remove the slam panel for itbs how do people secure the top of the radiator? Thanks. Mark

I'll get a pic. I have locked the rears with it cable tied up, so you would certainly be likely if you removed it altogether.