Search results

http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/hammond-drives-the-icons-renault-clio-williams-2013-03-22

I bought one of those tools, it was great for getting the old ones off but as I got pattern parts the head was larger so couldn't get enough torque on them to do them up so got a 32mm crows foot to sort them, but as said you may end up with a 36mm, its probably best just to get the genuine tie...

humm was thinking this, he's really knowledgeable about the boxes themselves, and the workshop was good but that statement really did put a doubt in my mind as I was leaving :headno:

just been to the gearbox re-con guy, he's been rebuilding boxes for along time and says to use cheap tesco semi-synth 5W 40 to stop the synchro's busting as they need the friction whats that all about!!!

lol looks like it was you that Paul was comparing my car to Lal

I can see where your coming from Tom but I'd have to disagree, each engine is different some are built on a Monday others a Friday ;), there was a near standard 182 at RS Tuning with the only mod been a decat that made 9 bhp less than my 438 clio with decat and 182 manifold and other associated...

Well after a bit more searching I found another part number and a cheap place to buy it from - http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Renault_Clio_2.0_2003/p/car-parts/car-transmission/clutch-and-associated-parts/clutch-kit/?641746070&1&03c0b449de9d561f5aee6b8f589b4148cf202031&000069

just to answer my own question with the part numbers - HAVAM - AD3885 HAVAM - AP4007 KM Germany - 0690842 RENAULT - 7701475929 RENAULT - 7701476557 SACHS - 3000951204 TRW - TCK2410 the one in bold it the actual quoted number from Renault when I phoned them ref -...

they're some crap wolf racing ones that I picked up brand new for £160 hence why I bought them, can't stand cleaning them takes ages

I'm assuming you can see the latest update with the graph showing 188bhp?

Once a blue moon or probably about 100k (at a guess), petrol is a relatively clean fuel. I only changed mine when having missfires to rule it out.

I know sorry, I can't edit the links in my first post and Flickr seems to have lost the ones I originally posted, thought it would look stupid repeating the whole thing so just linked the pictured here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtm2012...7633508548340/

Paul at RS Tuning managed to fit me in a last minute session for some mapping today, engine specs as follows - Catcam 438's ARP Conrod Bolts Matched Inlets Induction Kit 182 exhaust Manifold ​Ktec stealth exhaust with center silencer Decat some high temp paint :p the Graph - The car...

got around to changing the upper inlet manifold for my ported one, so from - To - looks a bit tidier, just the engine mount to give a little spray.

Okay so looks like the images have disappeared from my Flickr account :mad:, I can't edit my first post now to change the links so here they all are in my account - http://www.flickr.com/photos/dtm2012/sets/72157633508548340/

Well as I’ve had the clio for a couple of years now I thought its about time I did a project thread as I’ve enjoyed reading everyone elses. First a bit of car history, my first car (and best) was a Fiat Uno with a 1L engine that gave me my independence. My mate and I always modified our cars...

Hi Jack, ​I've got the 172 equivalent and also first had the straight through without cat, but I've added the centre silencer and find it acceptable with seats etc in, its still fairly loud but no where as bad as it was without it, its all pretty subjective, you could really do with someone...

been a while since I did mine, but its located at the fuel tank near the rear axle, there are two tabs / pipes, one either end, I think you can unclip them using a screw driver (you'll see when you get there) and simply remove each pipe and the filter, ensure you've something to catch any excess...

I would be looking at the lower ball joint on the wish bone first, these can be replaced without replacing the whole wishbone, then there's the strut top mounts and inspect condition of wishbone rubbers, I wouldn't suspect an engine mount unless it happens when changing gears, accelerating, or...

Or a cheap and "nasty" alternative it to cut some holes in the bottom of the air box (the bit before the filter, not after it) which will give a similar noise to the induction kit, but obviously you'll wreck your filter housing.

as a low cost item to replace and fairly easy (at least on the 172) I would have given it a go, you can also try cleaning it first to see if that helps.

removed

you can see it on the right there near the positive battery terminal, if its like mine it maybe hanging down the left hand side of the battery or under the filter housing

Thanks for posting a solution, many don't

will that fit under the bonnet? - http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=183

anyone know the part number for the Valeo clutch kit please? this one any good - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VALEO-clutch-kit-RENAULT-801985-263726-/290878244794?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AClio|Cars+Type%3A2.0+16V+Sport&hash=item43b9b1c7ba oh and is paisley freight the...

Don't know if you have one on your car but mine wouldn't start (ph1 172), I just had to reset the big red button near the battery

mines only got one proper one left and the other is a threaded bar that I sorted, I wouldn't worry too much immediately. Just drill the old bolt out and either use a long bit of threaded bar as I have into the boot floor or I've seen someone use a type of rivet nut or re-tap the capsulated nut...

well looks like its definitely the synchro that's bust, if I take it slow, no crunches, a little faster, crunch. On the upside I've stopped the exhaust from rattling and my solid AST topmounts seem to work well (guess that's for another section though).

Thanks Budgie, ye just the usual on the drive sort of affair so looks like the top again, cheers