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This product indeed sounds like a good rust penetrator.
Here's a cheap mixture I have been using for ages, combined from the stuff laying around in the garage:
1/3 of used motor oil,
1/3 of Valvoline Tectyl vehicle underbody rust preventive, and
1/3 of Kendall wheel bearing grease (blue).
Pour...
Maybe try unplugging the battery negative terminal for a minute or two and then try if it will run without the MAP sensor plugged in. Detach the MAP sensor plug before disconnecting the battery...
I would go for a failing MAP sensor or the pre-cat lambda sensor. Disconnect the MAP sensor connector plug and give the car a trip round the block to see if the engine behaves better. If it does, acquire a genuine MAP sensor from Renault, cheap ebay copies are tedious for not working through the...
Surely, if the coil pack is failing already at tickover, it should failure drastically at WOT?? As, at WOT the voltage required to jump the spark gap is times greater, because of more air in-between the spark plug gap. If the ignition coil's actual voltage riser coil wire has lost the...
I had on over-revved engine and as a consequence it had developed a knocking sound. I measured the compression wet and dry. The compression leveled out when wet, so I thought it must be a broken piston ring. Ahead I went and pulled out the pistons and replaced the rings.
Upon reassembly leak...
Getting better compression readings when wetting the cylinder can mean that either the piston rings or valves are not sealing properly. But with your readings everything is in order. Does it feel it has all the oomph it used to?
Measure (with a digital multi meter) the positive pole on the starter motor backside (should be a red thick wire attached to it) is getting the batter voltage (around 12,5 volts) WHEN THE CAR REFUSES TO START.
If this test passes, then,,,
Get a few pieces of thick wire, a pair of starter cables...
Perhaps dirty throttle body, take out and rinse clean with brake cleaner spray.
Perhaps pre-cat lambda sensor has failed.
Not the coil pack. If the coil pack fails will misfire at WOT first. Would think not the injectors as would think that if the injectors fail it would misfire at WOT first...
Could be a dirty throttle body, concluding from how the revs drop during gear change. I would take out the throttle body and rinse with brake cleaner spray.
Definitely the MAP sensor and pre-cat lambda sensor are also possibilities.
Exactly how did you measure the current output? The alternator current output increases when more devices are turned on/connected to the alternator. If you connect a multimeter between the alternator output and ground in CURRENT MEASURING MODE, you most likely will burn the multimeter. You...
If I remember correctly, there should be a fuse. And even if u can measure no continuity, when the car is running can you get a voltage reading from the alternator positive pin versus the car body (ground). To see if the alternator is putting out anything. Just to eliminate any possible error...
Sounds like a sensor failure in the engine compartment due to radiant heat from the engine block.
I would not bet on the coolant temperature sensor, as the car should reach running temperature in the coolant in less than 10 minutes.
25 minutes sounds more like a problem in the throttle body /...
4000 revolutions is probably the rev number of maximum torque, which means at these revolutions the engine pulls in the most air and thus the ignition coil voltage required to jump the spark gap is the greatest throughout the rev range. So the first suspect would be a traditional failing...
Well apparently the fan motor has developed a short circuit. Probably the coil wiring inside the fan motor has short circuited. The burning plastic is probably the smell from the fan motor overheating. Next time, start up the car, let it get hot, so that the fan should already have kicked in...
Would be unlikely that both the window motors have a problem. So a common nominator could be the UCH. Sounds like someone has messed with the UCH wiring or then someone has done a home refurb on the UCH relays. Probably did not go as planned...
Take out the UCH, pry the casing carefully open...
Lambda sensors go bad often. MAP sensors do not go bad as often. So based on statistics, I would go for the lambda. But are there any other symptoms? A failing MAP sensor would probably cause pretty noticeable running problems. A failing lambda sensor might cause the emission readings and the...
When going at over idle revolutions and the gas pedal is not being depressed, the injection type engines (all modern ICEs) should stop injecting fuel into the cylinders. This is called engine braking. At this point the ignition coils, etc., also have no role. So if your speed is at least 1.5...
Solder joints shall never be used in environments with vibration and shocks. Soldering two wires together means that the wires are inflexible up to the point where the solder has capillarily travelled. At that point the two wires will break when any flexion occurs. Using solder joints in...
What the posters above have said. I also had a twisted (crashed) rear axle that caused the car to constantly steer to one direction. So it is not a rule that the front-end is doing the steering!!
Also, if the car has been crashed, the whole steering geometry in the front-end might be messed up...
There is an immobilizer light on the instrument cluster. It is in the middle and of red color. If it is blinking at a pace of 4 Hz (=FAST), this means your key is the problem. In this case try resoldering the key.
If the light is not turning off after say 3 seconds from turning the ignition...
Yeah probably lambda (exhaust gas reminiscent O2-sensor) or MAF (Mass Air Flow) / MAP (Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.
The MAF/MAP can be ruled out by unplugging the MAP/MAF connector(s) and trying to start the car with the sensor disconnected; if it fires up you've found the...
Immobilizer light staying constantly lit means a communication error between ECU and UCH. The key is accepted and authorized as the immo light is not blibking at 4 Hz frequency. There is a data link problem. My bets are on a UCH fault or a broken/stripped wire. From the UCH there is one twisted...
GoranCRO: I bet your fault is due to a dead spot in the throttle position sensor's carbon brush track. So perhaps replace the throttle body.
Octavio.zl: As you say the fault is intermittent it is probably due to a bad connection in the lambda sensor wiring/connector. I suggest you replace the...
Sounds like a bad decoupling capacitor, or a main filtering capacitor, or a dry joint on the UCH PCB.
Next time you encounter the christmas tree symptom try to wiggle the black 40-pin connector around the slightest bit - located on the UCH. If this seems to have an effect then I would suspect a...