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No need to disconnect at all.

1. Yep, under the scuttle on the drivers side is the heater motor. Can be removed if you don't need it. 2. Nope, airbag and service light affect nothing apart from the dash. 3. Yep, nice and simple. Resistors might even turn the light off.

I've repaired a few of these over the years just using regular ring connectors. As above, no issues.

Yep.

The cable should be slack when not in use. In terms of the squeak/jolt, you might be lucky and have it being the cable which will improve if greased, but my bet is it's more likely going to be a box off job to sort that.

Jackpot. Note that the cost of that adds to the repair. Sayonara 172 rep.

Me too. It's brilliant for the money! Think i got this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AGD5J02/?tag=cliospnet01-21

As above. Look for obvious signs of wear, leaks and check they operate smoothly and job's a good'un.

Just go OZ F1's tbh. Light. Look decent. Plentiful should you need a replacement. Only £150 a set. No issues.

Most garages won't have a master. Give them a call and ask where they've put it.

Those should just unclip and leave you to plug regular bulbs in. Every set i've seen has been like this anyway

Either that, or buy some matt black stuff off ebay and cut them to shape. Bit of pissing about, but does the trick.

I have this set for sale. Don't want much for them tbh.

Lol. Fail. I've had to argue the point with someone before, who was entirely serious. lol

oh, and OP, say goodbye to that. It'll be written off.

Not in the slightest. How can you prove you were indicating? If the above was the case, you'd be able to drive like you owned the road, only using indicators correctly and nobody could touch you, no matter what your actions. You drive by the rules of the road. Indicators do exactly what they...

Don't bother tbh. It's not going anywhere.

Nah, won't be an issue as long as the buckle of the buckle is put in the right place

4 point is more than enough for road and track use.

Or @midge is from round that way..

Been done before. Have a search mate

Unless, someone perceives the breather hole at the top of the box as the fill hole. (;

They have done effectively. Plastic wingnut in the front of the box. Oil level should be up to the bottom of that on level ground. On a 172/182, capacity is 3.1 litres. Don't bother buying the 4th litre bottle though, 3l is plenty when you consider residue in the box which you'll never remove...

If they're only braking in a straight line, they won't be half as good (or quick rather) than those who are heel and toeing and trail braking into bends.

Text so you can read it.

That said, double de-clutching is massive overkill. Rev matching is decent though. I always love this one:

f**k knows if you've done the loom - but it would seem it's on a perma live. Last resort if you can't fix that is to just wire it in with a simple switch on the dash.

@Kelv is near Gatwick. I'm in Chertsey. I'll swap a set of fronts for £20 one evening if you bring ti over...

It's possible from the inside, but twice as fiddly TBH. You at least need a jack, axle stands and a socket set to swap the seats. Find a local member on here and chuck them £20 TBH. Where you based?

It's an easy job mate. 4 nuts per seat, from under the car. Deep 13mm socket required. There's a little rubber cap keeping the muck off the outer two bolts. Then the inner 2 are through a hole in the exhaust heatsheild. Wiring is simple enough..