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ATF/PAS/Hydraulic fluid.

Cutting yours off? Plenty of special websites where someone will be interested. xx

I'd rather cut my own dick off an eat it than change these bushes again tbh.

Yep, reverse threaded extractors as above.

Yep

I'm in the same boat. Sim only on my current 5s, but i don't see that the 6 or 6s can be that much of an improvement to warrant £600 or whatever it is.

I take the bumper off either way as it only takes 2 mins. Use some well cut cardboard to guide the coolant into a bucket when draining, or it'll splash on the subframe and go all over the deck.

Front bumper off. Then one of these from the top: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-Flexible-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Long-Reach-Snap-Type-630mm-Wire-/261850395471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cf77ff34f If you don't have these, you can use plumbers wrenches to undo the clamps from underneath

Bear in mind Cambelt and Dephaser is a £600 job. I would be after a FF, mainly because of Xenons and the nicer interior.. My advice would be to spend £12 and join up here. Find a car off the forum that is known and documented..

I really wouldn't bother. Same as you're meant to service/replace airbags every ten years. Nobody bothers. Pump access is under the rear bench though.

As in all parts that have been removed from the same particular vehicle. Find someone breaking a 182 is your best bet. @Kelv @Llewellyn

Yep, no issues at all. You'll need to swap the breather plates on top of the engine if you're putting a 182 engine in a 172, but that takes 30 seconds.

If you want two keys, best to get key, UCH and ECU. If you only want one, then blade, barrel and door lock is all that's required. But the old owner could potentially still open the car if they have a key. For complete security from old owner, you'll need: Key(s), ECU, UCH, Door Barrel...

It'll be one of the mounts. That said, the gear stick will always move under load. Nothing to worry about unless it's thumping the dash every time you come off the clutch

What a drip.

Work is incredible, but whatever filter is on the photos ruined it for me! Looks so much better in the last ones where you can actually see it!

How about Renault? Or ECP? Or GSF?

Clean them with petrol. But cleaning stuff won't make it start. If they're sparking, my bet is crank sensor.

Ph1 172 Throttle pedal.

As above. Things to watch: -Cambelt and dephaser isn't cheap, so best to buy one done in the last couple of years. by someone reputable. -Mileage - as above, no issues with a leggier one. I have owned 172's/182's with some serious miles on, and as long as they're serviced properly i honestly...

If it's loose, it's worn. Not a huge issue as long as it's not slack or collapsing, just note that it will only get worse on stiffer springs. (:

Only real way to test is to have the shocks off the car. Inspect visually. Should be no obvious leaks. With the shock upright, stick a foot on the hub mounting and pull the thread up to extend. Should be firm, but moveable. Should be smooth, no skips or loose spots. Noise isn't an issue as...

Throttle body. Basically, take the air filter and inlet elbow off. Then spray fuel in there with a mister as it's cranking.

If it's cranking strongly enough then it's unlikely to be affected by jump starting. Try the fuel spray trick first IMO. Could try a bump/push start.

If that was the case, when it did finally fire it would set fire to your exhaust. To rule out fuel being the case, as the engine is cranking, use a spray bottle and mist some fuel in the TB. If it coughs/fires/tries to run then it's not getting fuel right. Spark - whip out one of the plugs and...

@pingpong

LOL at no fuel smell in the exhaust. No, no, no. Just no. Check spark. Check there's fuel at the rail. Check crank sensor. Will it start with easy start/petrol being sprayed in the TB?

Oi, @Cub. Wanna clean my car while i'm goating about with the Picra? Cheers, xx

f**king awkward, that's for sure. I'd say it would be possible with the engine in, but you'll have to bring it forward in the bay. Inlet off. I'd also want the O/S driveshaft out to get better access from underneath also. All that said, i've only ever removed one engine out which is easy, and...

Honestly, don't worry how far you have to drive to buy it if it's the right car. It'll be a damn sight less than you'll be without a car if you buy a shed that spends time in the garage. Not to mention cost. lol