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So the 420 and 428 aren't really worth bothering with? As they aren't much higher lift?

What number do standard cams come under if group n is 420?

Did they take a while to warm up when you first go out or do they warm up quick?

So right at the front of the wheel. I had to use a hammer to bend it out of the way so it wouldn't catch the wheel in hard cornering. 182ff with Oz F1 et37 and 16mm front spacers

I'm out atm but I'll try for a picture when I'm home

I think it's the front wheel arch liner hole, where the big Christmas tree clip goes it

There's a peice of metal that hangs down on the inside of the front arches where the inner arch and wing rail are welded together, it will probably need grinding flush or hammering flat as in fast corners can scrape on the tyre and cut chunks out. 3 of us had to modify it at Cadwell

182 ff have cup bottom arms ?

Gotcha

Am I right in thinking more caster for better turn In?

I wish they did!!!

More CMC goodies not to everybody taste but damn it I've bought em so I'll fit em ? Then had to make this for little uns birthday

How long did it take to set up? And 927kg is that with your weight added or just kerb weight ?

Been fighting with my cm composites door cards. I bloody hate fibreglass...

Depends how competent you are I suppose. Yes they can be savage but you need to read the situation. If your going to the point of bare metal whats the point in leaving rust in the pits and then you painting over it, won't last 2 minutes. If the panel is that bad that you risk making holes then...

I use them at work as a panel beater bud

It's stupidly expensive bud but it really does work... a normal wire wheel starts to polish rust up after it hits a hard part n it'll go a black colour. That MBX wheel laterally picks the rust out back to bare steel. If panels are really pitted tho it rips them to bits just as a sand blaster...

I wouldn't as if water gets between the glass and steel it cant get out so it will rust it's way out. Black wax oil the rear of the panel, but remove any lose crap first. Could also put clear wax oil between any matting faces to reduce water sitting behind your fuel flat base and the filler neck.

Best tool for the job is a MBX wheel. It's a wire wheel but the ends are turned in and it basically sandblasts the metal by picking at the rust. Not cheap but if your in the trade it's a massive time Saver. Just have to be careful not to warp panels with it though

Can't be as bad as a tow bar? Them things will drop the toughest of men and make them cry like a girl!

Renault must still do em

Mine needs doing also. But ill probably weld a new one in just before I get the car wrapped.

Chuck some pictures up

How bad is it

So, I'm not trying to burst your bubble but... with all the brown rust you have left in there it will be only a matter of weeks before the rust bubbles through again. Only way the make it last a while is to wire wheel as much as you possibly can out. Then use your rust convertor. Not much point...

So fitted a Fabia front splitter using ally banana rivets and 4 x push button catches to hold front bumper on. Very sold and ment I could lose the crap plastic behind bumper. Neat little job

Need some nice cap head bolts to go with them

Need some nice cap head bolts to go with them

I'm in the same situation. Im thinking using some 6mm Allan key cap head bolts and riv nuts

Down the wide concrete road? Good little test run down there. Whens first time out then? Date in mind?