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I’m the one who told him to run the Sachs clutch because I’ve seen more valeo failures than I care to remember. This is the ‘oem’ valeo unit. Strangely the genuine Renault valeo doesn’t have the same failure rate.
Not guilty on that one as it was never due the belt change in my ownership! There was definitely a receipt in the history file for a belt change though.
Any recent pics of FKU?
I can answer this.
Do you like cars? YES
Do you like Clios? YES
Do you enjoy track driving? YES
Are you a raging homosexual? YES
Then CSF is where you need to be. 👍🏻
That small a difference won’t make any noticeable improvements. You may get a very slight increase in midrange performance, but I really don’t think you’ll feel it.
No worries mate. Unfortunately you need to give these gearboxes a bit of respect as they don’t like to be rushed.
Why thank you. I’ve also got a c**k like a lion bar.
No I shamelessly robbed the image off here as I forgot to take a pic of the one I’ve got in the garage lol
Right so you see the fork/hub assembly circled red? On yours it’s sitting proud and it needs to be flush - as in the image.
There’s a spring clip you access via the 3 slots in the hub - if the hub won’t slide down and sit flush, stick a small screwdriver in the slots and manually manipulate the...
Right, so straight away I can see that the selector for 5th gear isn’t in the correct position.
I will post a pic in here of what it should look like this evening and tag you in it mate. 👍🏻
The good news is that it hasn’t stuck in any gear, so hopefully with 5th gear back in the correct place...
Drain the oil out of the box and lower the gearbox down on to the subframe.
There’s a black end cover on the end of the gearbox that’s held secure with 3x 8mm bolts (13mm socket/spanner size). Remove the bolts and drop that end cover off. It’s a bit of a faff as there’s a oil feed tube in the...
There was a chart doing the rounds a while back that stated all the numbers of cars sold in the U.K. and the options they had on them.
You could tell it was factory from where and how it had been painted.
You can potentially convert the 182 head to run with the 197 belt setup by simply removing the idler pulley below the inlet camshaft mate. That’s the pulley you have to add to run a 197 head on a 1*2 block, so I can’t see why reversing the idea wouldn’t work.
You may need to run a bolt in the...
The degrees are measured at the cam. When you use the standard timing tool, they sit level. When you use the Grp n tool, the inlet advances 6 degs in angle from the straight position and the exhaust does the opposite.
The crank doesn’t move from the locked position.
It’s a DCI, but the final drive is ideal for boost. I was going to combine it with 197 ratios to close it all up. The gearing works well on a car with 15’s or 16’s tbf.
If you got a washer that would fit over the knurled piece, you could then use a m8 repair washer over the top and a nylon nut to adjust the ‘pre load’. I imagine that would eliminate almost all of the movement you can see in the video you’ve posted.
Back and forth movement can be attributed to the selector forks in the box have worn, but for side to side, the nylon bush, the shifter pin and the selector lever at the box can have wear.
I’ve seen the nylon bush be inserted incorrectly and give strange movement too.
It only takes a small...