Search results

Yeah , just jack it up and take the wheels off then you can get a good view . Mine were rusty , they're bound to be on a car this age but it had a definite spilt in the ring causing the fault .

Going off my own experience and a split ABS ring , I had constant lights .

Thinking about it now . Last year I had an intermittent fault with my Cruise control / speed limiter not working . Once every blue moon it wouldn't work . Since having a new ABS ring fitted last November it's never reappeared . Coincidence ?? Have you checked your ABS rings yet ?

Very nice , lovely colour . Just need s a good going over with a bucket and a sponge then the jobs a good un :tongueout:

Whip the wheels off and check the ABS rings. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-ABS-RING-44-TEETH-2002-ONWARDS-/170533790204?hash=item27b49b21fc:g:EogAAOSwX~dWtKLQ

Try slackening off the brackets and moving them.

Yeah you'll need your radio code. I'm still going with a badly rusted / split ABS ring . Mine was split , as soon as i set off driving the brake peddle would judder , then the ABS , serv and TC light would come on and the peddle judder would go away .

Glad your sorted :smile: . Funny little fcukers these Clios lol .

Nice one . Was it one of the sidelight fuses ?

In your pic. There is a green fuse at the bottom . Just above that you'll see two light symbols with arrows . According to the manual these are the sidelight fuses . Maybe try those fuses.

Have you tried another bulb ? Is the interior light working ? The one above your head. That's also a 501 bulb . Try the failed passenger side light in there and the interior light in the passenger side bulb holder and see if they both work.

Which bulb did you remove on the passenger side ? Have you tried replacing it with a new bulb and seeing if that affects the lights that have gone off on your dash ?

Badly rusted / split ABS ring ?

Don't worry about your replies . There are quite a few things that can cause these problems 1*2s are at that age now were it seems you regularly see faults like yours . People are happy to help on CS , usually .

When you say coilpack , plugs , leads and injectors have all been ruled out . How have they actually been ruled out ? It does sound more like the injectors than anything else .

I couldn't say if they're faulty . Maybe if you bought some cheap ones ?? Is your exhaust leaking at the joint between the Cat and centre section or manifold ? That can cause your exhaust to pop and bang . Is it always only on idle ? What about when the cars fully warmed up ?

Maybe your pre Cat lambda sensor? Swap it over with the post Cat and see if that makes any difference .

Just been to get the 182's air con regassed to be told that 2 of the pipes have been rubbing together and both have holes in them. I'm assuming that after having a new alternator fitted a couple of months ago the pipes were bent and were rubbing together afterwards and that's why the past few...

Another vote for Mick at Diamond motors . Or Birchdown in Malpas which is alot nearer to Blackpool, about 90 mins drive plus they have a courtesy car . Both know these cars inside out and won't give you any BS . Renault will ass rape you . The first time I had my 182 done , they had it for 5...

I hope you get it sorted mate and it's something simple and not too costly . Chin up !

I'm no mechanic . But I had a similar sound and it was my water pump. You can hear a screeching sound 25 seconds in . Mine was making that noise but more frequently.

As far as I'm aware , the rear sliders don't actually have any grease inside them, I've never seen any, just a rubber gaitor on each end to keep the s**t out . They've got a polished surface if you look inside and the caliper being aluminium I guess they don't rust , unlike the front sliding...

Lots and lots of threads on injectors lately . I guess all the 1*2's are coming to that age / mileage were they are starting to fail . You usually get the engine management light on if it's an injector fault . You used NGK PFR6E-10 spark plugs ? 1*2's don't seem to like other makes .

When you say you've done alot of work on yours , what work exactly ? Have you had the inlet manifold off / changed the spark plugs ? They can leak from the little donut seal underneath. Usually when you see somebody who has a leak the revs will be alot higher than what you're experiencing.

They are quite lumpy on idle , but that sounds lumpier than normal . Once fully warmed up it should idle around 700 +/- 50 rpm, thats according to Autodata and thats about right for mine . Maybe some sort of air leak ? I'm no expert though .

You'll be right mate . Once you open the bleed nipple to push the piston back you'll have lost a dribble of brake fluid. I wouldn't bother bleeding myself .

I can only go off my 182 . I had a decat and it was definitely louder . The decat did exactly nothing for performance . In the end after I swapped it over for MOT I sold the decat . By all means go for the 182 style exhaust , but don't waste your money on decat imo.

Take it off and start again . The pistons way too far out . Get that wound back in , bolt the pad carrier on first then put the pads in . If the piston is wound in fully you should have no problem getting the pads in . If you can't get the piston back in far enough you'll never get it back...

The pistons out hell of a long way , as stated by others . Did you wind it out that far yourself ? On the back of the piston is a threaded hole that screws onto a thead bar that operates the handbrake mechanism . If you completely unscrewed it you'll probably struggle to get it to screw back on...

i don't know why it would be spongy if the piston only came a little bit. I always clean and regrease the sliders everytime I change the brake pads . Touch would I've never had one seize yet . If you did manage to get the slider out , clean it up , wire wool and regrease . I'd leave bleeding...