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As per the title, looking at fitting a aftermarket fuel pump, does anyone have dimensions for the fuel pump? Or part numbers for other pumps that fit? Id take the pump out but i have a full tank and wont be using the car for a wile... dont want to waste fuel :smile:

If they can fit a v8 in a lupo... im sure we can make a plan on the clio :cool:

yea that sounds like release bearing, it is a bearing so they will last a fair bit even if they're dead but will fail when you least expect it or need it most... so best to get it sorted out... as you mentioned... might as well replace clutch disk while your in there

all my interior lights are led and i have not had any issues, even my brake clusters and park lights are all led.:confused: although. it is french. so anything is possible

there is a small inspection hole that is covered by the arch but its not very big, you will be able to get to the immediate area around the servo, if your agile you can get to them from underneath... or the top more towards the abs unit

there are 4 main earth straps in the engine bay, one from the battery to the chassis, one to the gearbox (braided strap), one to the bell housing and a smaller one by the brake fluid reservoir, i class anything with computer controlled injection and ignition as modern lol so yes... your ride is...

battery and stop would indicate a fault on the charging circuit, by the crackling sound you heard, something either blew or more probable is that one of the earth straps or leads has corroded and fallen off... seen this happen a few times... your dash lights will still come on even if the...

this is a strange one, id check where the light earths to as well as the sensors plugs.. sounds like you have an epic lose connection somewhere... or you could just live with it until the problem develops further making it easier to find.

Sounds like the the glass might be sticking in the sheath, see if you can wiggle the window down with the mechanism, Ive got a kenwood radio in my car and while ive never had a problem with the radio i have had to clean the contacts and the adapter for the radio as well as all of the plugs...

As far as i know the air con condenser is clipped onto the front on the radiator, so it would be the same size and should fit... on your ride the condenser would have been removed however there will be no harm done if you measure up your current rad and compare it to that of another...

Eish u need to do a good and proper flush of the system if you used any sort of radweld or stop leak, before you replace the rad, make sure that the hoses are in good condition, and arnt leaking

it may only leak when the system is hot and under pressure... run it till its hot then let it idle and look for the drip

as i was reading i was thinking relays... glad its sorted mate, whenever my car starts getting grumpy i go through and clean all the sensor plugs and fuses relays...

Well id presume its the connectors on the radio since you were working in that area, ive had problems with the plugs for the door looms in the past so it might be worth going through those as well

Just pull the radio out again and give all the plugs a wiggle... there will be one connector with around 12 wires on it

Strait unbolting and wiggling it past the subframe

So it was the lambda sensor... or a leak on the exhaust

Had the same issue, the pump does not prime on innitial start, this is normal, the problem for me was the coil packs, 2 of them wernt making proper contact with the spark plugs after i replaced the plugs and cleaned all the connectors the problem was sorted, the tops of the old blugs were melted...

yep, but a hammer is always more fun :tonguewink:

could well be a bad earth or something isn't plugged in properly, I remember 4 earth straps in the engine bay... could be more, check these, also, are there any lights on the dash besides the usual when it fails to start? coil light?

if you could blip the throttle fine before you changed the injector and you only changed the injector then that's probably where the problem is, computer might need to re calibrate as well. if you havnt already, take it for a easy cruise to allow the computer to adjust...

I remember the plugs being pretty tight, do you still want the old radio? if not. get the hammer.

Just get them made...

1st cylinder is flywheel side

As above, and check and replace the gbox and engine mount with oem if needed

Id check for bad connections on the plugs that go to the uch and the big white connector for the relays in the engine bay as well... most times a bad connection will cause all your dramas

Ive used the micro tech tools with no problems if you changing the dephaser as well then you need the pulley locking tool, horse shoe tool for the cam shafts and the crank pin, flywheel locking tool comes in handy as well unless you have a friend with a big screwdriver...

Temp sensor can cause lots of strange problems, ho2 is the heated oxygen sensor, or lambda sensor, this should range from around 0.2 to 0.7 volts, should go up and down once a second, max and min values are 0 and 1v

The clutch pedal is self adjusting, they all have a high bite

I stay in south africa so its a hot climate, been running castrol 10w 40 for 12 years with out any problems... briefly tried 5w 30 which made it run very tappy... but it is recommended for the colder climates... so depends... cant go wrong with fully synthetic 10w 40 though