Search results

Glad its sorted, slap some mitchies on her

yea you should be able to flick the catch closed when its in its open position, but if its already in its closed position then its not going to open by finger power... can you still hear the lil cam gear working on the boot with the centeral locking?

there should be no slop in the steering, first thing I would do is climb under it and do a full tighten up and check all the bushes and joints, worn ball joints and tie rod ends can cause lots of intersting handeling characteristics, tyres have a huuuge impact on handeling. as for steering...

got a microtech cam locking set with all the bits for 700 bucks ( 33 pounds and some odd) worked just fine, cambelt is easy to do, space is limited though so a magnet on a stick is a handy tool to have, follow the guides if your unsure how to do it and you will be fine. just make sure to give...

If there are any dash lights on then itll fail, give the sensors and rings a clean, often filings and dust build up on them, while you are in there check the rings for missalignment and cracks.

Looks like a really big hammer needs to be used next

Sounds a bit strange to me

Have u checked the relays and fuses in the engine bay, theres also a large multi connector plug in there that can cause some problems...

Ive had a few bad experiences with bleed screws snapping on bmws... leaving you with a nice little water fountain so i dont use the bleed screws unless i have to...

Wrap it if you looking for long term, plastidip dosnt discolour but it chips and peals off fairly easily...

I managed to get the pipe off with out taking the bumper off, would have been much easier to just take the bumper off though ill admit, i didnt bother with the bleed screws, just ran the engine for a while and topped up as needed in the drive way till it went around 10 mins without dropping again...

Welcome to the club mate :beers:

Drive it... thats my recomendation

If the engine is under load when creeping and you push the clutch in the revs will rise a bit, however i havnt noticed it rise past 1000 rpm

Try re mapping it, odd that it happens after a certain distance though.

Yea stick it on the clip, it should tell you what is bringing up the problem

🙈

Are the revs limiting at 3000 rpm? Thats the normal limp mode rpm, if the computer has been re mapped for the new engine then there may be a problem there. Could also be a sensor breaking down that may be messing around with the computer

If its electronic its new unit time, if its cable then you should be able to dig up some bushes

Got the same problem but when looking at the signals everything seems fine, if the coolent temp sensor was dead wouldnt it be sending whack signal?

Should be solid, is it the electronic throttle unit or cable? Check the bushings if you can

Cluch could be at fault, not much to it but to rip it out and have a look, might be woth checking the gear linkage is set up properly and isnt bent or something.... but if the cluch it sticking and smelling bad then thatcis likely to be your problem... There are a few threads on removing the...

Sounds like the clutch went... these self repairing cars...

Got 60mm travel

Never really looked at how much travel the pedal has, will measure just now...

There should be a little plastic stopper on the floor that the acelerator pedal arm will touch at max travel, if its stopping before touching the pad then theres a problem, is there any play in the pedal/ housing

Check the accelerator cable, if it has one... the cable lock may have some lose and slipped, but if its fly by wire throttle... then im not sure

In my case the lambda sensors were at fault...

If it suddenly switched off check all the earth straps, main engine bay fuses, ecu and uch fuses etc, what dash lights are on with ignition?

Search for headlight restoration in the forums, been covered many many times