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well on some other threads they guys mention the lambda sensors... in cold weather they sometimes don't heat up enough and cause the mixture to be out, however, plugged in a reader and the voltages and frequency look spot on right from a shuddering cold start... other comments have been the...

my cars beendoing the same thing of late, only in cold weather, anything above 10 degrees and it fires first kick, anything lower and it either splutters to life or stalls on the first attempt, however given a second attempt itll fire up no problem... I've given all the relays and fuses, tdc...

theres a redesigned version I think, replace the thing

sounds like something lose on the brakes, id take the wheels off and do a tighten up, or take it to a brake specialist or tire shop

checking the fuses would be a good place to start, going through the entire car and cleaning every plug and sensor you can find worked to solve all my electrical issues

could just be acting french and trying to lighten itself, wouldnt be the first time ive seen stuff that was incorectly installed at the factory

have a look around the pipe work for the ac, if there is a leak you should see it, leaves a greeny, yellow residue if im not mistaken

could well be the shocks as well

yea something wrong there, was the cover plate on properly when you took it off?

you can possibly get to the latch from underneath but you would need a very long thin arm

that's not much of a leak, my seats leak more oil than that :tonguewink:, next time you have the belts changed get the cover re sealed, or if it really starts pissing out, but I wouldn't worry too much about some dampness like that

yea new cable might work, maybe trace it and make sure that the sheath hasn't come lose somewhere or has any tight bends in it that aren't normal

looks mint

could be welded... carefully. but as above nothing beats a picture

could be a sticky throttle body or a dirty sensor ( i know thats not saying much, there are millions of sensors) a good thourgh clean of all the plugs, n sensors does quite a bit of good... any lights on the dash?

telcom powder takes similar marks off paint so it may work on glass?

does the tick stay the same speed or does it change with the revs?

that does sound like a bearing or bush

sounds like a clutch, often when on bare metal there is still enough friction for normal drive but it lets go when you give it any more foot... 20k is fairly low though, the clutch pedal is self adjusting, they all have a high bite point...

quite common, caused by residual current in the circuit, not enough to light up a normal bulb, but is enough to light a LED, although my car seems fine... cheap and nasty Chinese LEDs rule as their resistance is usually pretty epic

giving it the beans usually solves some squeaks and rattles :tongueclosed:

was the pads on mine at one stage, they were a bit low and rattled to $*&^ as well, best is to pull the wheel off and have a snoop around ur brakes, suspension mounts, tie rod ends etc...

ah yea your alt is poked then, take the drivers side wheel and arch liners off, u may be able to get to the tensioner from underneath or you may need to undo the engine mounts a bit and move the engine over for a bit more space, its a bumper off job to get the alt out as it bolts in from the...

well if there is air in the system, the pedal is usually spongey or it goes to the floor with out doing much, some have managed to bleed the air out the pump by going on gravel and slamming on the brakes a number of times so the abs activates, although i wouldnt recomend this if you have limited...

it could if the starter shorts out, voltage will drop and cause the light to come on

3 - could be air in the system, if the air has got to the abs unit then its a pig to bleed it out. 4 - hand brake could be down to worn pads but is easily adjustable from under the car, make sure the cables are intact. 5- sounds like dead ball joints, possibly suspension bushes and mounts 6 - if...

if you have a volt meter, measure the voltage across the battery with the engine running, it should be around 14 volts... also make sure that the connectors on the battery terminals are clean and free of corrosion, when the car fails to start do you still have interior lights and dash lights? if...

I've got a MAS screen protector on my phone, almost bullet proof, my mates have tried to scratch it with a range of sharp objects and I cant notice a single scratch or chip in the screen

Im running a Power flow system, sounds pretty good, although I don't know how power flow uk compares to where I am in South Africa

the anti roll bar bushes that attach the roll bar to the control arms are normally the culprits for knocking noises over bumps, either those or the top mounts...