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if I run normal bulbs after a while under braking the indicators and fogs will come on, seems as everything heats up the pod melts together or something... I only changed to LED as they run cooler and draw less current... these lights... very entertaining... its like my car is trying to look...

ive cleaned them, minimal corsion, think im going to try cover everything and cheese and pour wine over it... should fix it lol i did pull everything off yesterday and it seems that one of the led bulbs has the twice the resistance as the other so im going to get another set of bulbs and try...

ive checked and cleaned the earths a number of times, ive tried new normal bulbs as well and it shorts to the fogs and indicators

anyone?

Howsit gents, I have a clio 2 1.4 16v and have been having endless problems with the rear lights, initially I had the usual fog light on the dash comeing on when braking or when in reverse, then the indicators started to come on as well. I have checked the clusters and the earths all over the...

There is lots of led stuff available... just note that if you replace the indicator bulbs you may need to replace the relays as leds have a much higher resistance than the normal bulbs which can cause the relays to repeat fast as if you have a blown bulb...

sounds like dirty injectors or something

do you have coolent in the system? any leaks should be easily noticable as the coolent will leave a white residue when it dries, i had a slow leak from my water pump at one stage, would only leak when the engine is on and hot...

besides for the oil smell... the gearing problems could be down to a sticky release bearing on the clutch although these cars dont like going into first at any speed much over 10kmh, snoop around the engine bay and have a look for oil leaks, and monitor your oil level, if the level isnt changing...

I got a 4 channel ellies one, works well

this has been covered plenty here, normally a problem with the earths on the rear light clusters, if you pull the carpet back behind the clusters in the boot you will see a thin wire going to a weld nut on the body, give this a clean and it will normally sort out your problems... ( although it...

I had the same problem, tried all the tricks, solved the issue by putting LED lights in, they draw almost nothing so you don't get any shorting out... slightly duller than normal bulbs but I can live with that

nice pics!!

something may still be pulling the battery down though, if u have a multi meter do a draw test to see how much the electrics is drawing when the car is off (do not fire up the engine while reading the draw as you will blow the meter) my tracker alarm has a lovely habit of blowing itself up and...

nothing should crackle behind the speedo :confused: there might be a lose connection or something on the pod or steering column

Haynes manual only shows what the relays are for, if I remember correctly there is a diagram on the inside of the dust cover for the engine bay fuse box that shows whats what... I think the fuse for the fogs is on the fuse box in the cabin of the car ad not in the engine bay box... though im...

both can bring up the light, however the pre lambda sensor (before the cat) is used for the fuel mix, the post lambda dosnt influence the mix and is just there to make sure that the cat is working...

3 mounts, one is basically the cam belt cover, the other 2 are on the gearbox, one under the battery and the other from the back of the box to the subframe, this is the normal one that dies... see how much u can rock the engine back and forth by hand... if its more than 10 -15 mm then the dog...

if the new mids have tweeters then u can disconect the dash tweeters... ive managed to take the dash tweeters out with out taking the dash off but it is a bit fiddely... im running my front speakers with tweeters and the backs are just normal mids and it sounds pretty deacent...

they are fairly noisy engines, if you post a vid of the noise Im sure someone can point you in the right direction

have you checked all the fuses?

I don't have fogs on my car, that was the other option... drls or fogs... I chose the drls... I know lots of people that drive with their fogs on, nothing wrong with being visible, as long as what ever lights you run are not pointing at the sky and blinding people :down:

might still be a air lock somewhere, when the fan kicks in can you see coolant flowing back into the expansion tank through the small hose going to the top of the tank?

I think almost every clio has this problem... I have tried all the tricks in the book and mine still short every now and again, normally cleaning the earths fixes the problem, the earth lines run from the bodywork on the inside of the boot, take the plastic trim off where the boot lock hook is...

I've cleaned, sprayed and re earthed the clusters on mine and the fog light still flickers on the dash sometimes... usually when its wet weather... which has the annoying result of my back windscreen wiper going every time I use the breaks or indicators... are there any aftermarket clusters...

should spin unless one of the pads are in skew... or the wrong pads have been used...

I have proper Phillips ones on my car, and they look pretty good, draw a lot less power than running the fogs all the time, kinda makes it look like the clio 4 as well... they have saved me a few times where before I put them on I felt invisible on the roads... so in my opinion... well worth it...

more or less, i did use high heat grease on the sliders and bend the anti rattle clips out more, the ratteling tends to be the pads ratteling around and not the actual caliper

the sliders do have some play in them, can rock the caliper back and forth by about 1mm on mine... and thats with new sliders as mine where knocking around over bumps...

lol my tyres look like a christmas tree, got so many plugs in em:monkey: