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think its only job is like flyers handed out in shops and stuff... made to be thrown away lol. im sure there is some devine use for them bt ive never botherd to find out.

only one way to find out :tonguewink:

what pads are you running?

more than likely a lose wire somewhere, do a continuity test if u can

don't know how much different they are but heres a diagram for a auto...

Search for headlight restoration... pleanty of threads on it

The gear box will make a clicking sound going from reverse to first but a loud bang or clunk noise under hard acceleration could indicate a bad engine mount, most likely the dog bone mount as you said... its easy to check from underneath... also try and move the engine around by hand, if theres...

there are tons of threads on starting issues, it is a common problem, the most common checks are the earth straps, the leads going to the starter motor, TDC sensor, immobiliser, if the car feels lumpy while its running it could also be coil packs, my car also tends not to start if the temp...

Get a normal bonnet and carbon wrap it?

there are small suction cup dent pullers available although they seem pretty elusive in my country, ive seen hectic dents removed by them bt i dont seem to be able to get it right, the usual way is to weld a rod or a few rods in ur case on top of the dent and use a slide hammer to pull the dent...

my 1.4 16v dosnt eat oil at all, if there are no leaks anywhere and your oil isnt discoloured or anything as if the head gasket is at fault then the only other place it can be going is past the rings... is there any smoke comeing out the exhaust when you give it the beans? any other faults or...

Not sure exactly what pioneers i have, stuck them in a few years back... they wernt that expensive though... 180 rand per pair so about 10 pounds... they do crackle when running deacent bass, but its only at volumes where u cant hear the passengers screaming anymore lol

Ive managed to remove my dash tweeters with out taking the top of the dash off... the little vents unscrew and pop out then with a fair bit of swaring you can get em out... but good luck getting anything back in with out taking the dash off. An option to make the sound slightly better would...

whith these cars wiring systems its worth going through every plug, fuse and relay every now and a gain with a can o spray... i was blowing ecu fuses repeatedly not so long ago, went through almost every sensor, plug, fuse in the engine bay and under the dash... seems like it was a lose...

or... if it does bring up the eml light u can always throw in a mini cat adapter that fools the sensor into thinking there is still a cat.

nope, ive got a wee 1.4 so a remap wouldnt make much difference :rasp: as for the post lambda, stuck it right back where it was... some clios complain and bring up the eml light on the dash which is easily negatable, and some like mine dont notice and carry on as normal... there are quite a few...

thats very high :eek: it sould regulate to around 14 volts

check your earth straps and leads?

de cat is well worth it in my opinion, you get a lot more throttle response and slightly more noise :)

what colour are the wires? another way to see if the speakers are the right way around is to play something with a deacent beat, if the cone of the speaker is kicking out towards you on the beat then its the right way around, if it kicks inwards, then you have got the polarity mixed up...

you can get shorter springs however that will generally increase the stiffness, as for the drum to disk conversion, thats quite a big job... some have done it but the gain u get from having disks on the back isnt worth all the effort... unless u really like driving backwards or are big into ur...

i greased the sliders with copperslip and bent the anti rattle springs on the pad further out and it seems to have sorted the problem, i replaced the sliders and it didnt make a difference, so try greasing em up with some high heat grease and see if that works, before you replace the sliders...

try taking the aux belt off and see if it still whines? will atleast narrow it down a bit... i had a noisy altinator a while back, bearings were gone...

https://www.google.co.za/search?q=clio+engine+fuse+box+wiring+diagram&biw=1366&bih=622&tbm=isch&imgil=b4d-IYHze4fq0M%253A%253BRUVsEGGu3w6W9M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cliosport.net%25252Fforum%25252Fshowthread.php%25253F235663-Mk2-Ph2-Engine-Fuse-And-Relay-Key&source=iu&pf=m&fir=b4d-IYHze4...

does the back end bounce after u go over a speed bump or something? if it does then theyre shot

will reduce the power slightly unless u can get it in cool air flow, will sound a bit better compared to the standard set up thougth... and jus make sure u clean and oil the filter often

right thougt id update on what i found, wasnt the cambelt as i suspected, small 30 amp fuse in the engine bay that runs the ecu popped, didnt spot it in the dark, replaced it and it fired up fine, however as i switched off it popped again, went through and cleaned everything, got a box full of...

howsit gents, as the title suggests my clio decided to die, (clio 1.4 mk2) tried searching here but only got immobilizer problems which is not the case here... car was running perfectly then when i pressed the clutch in to turn up my mates drive way the revs dropped right down to nothing and...

could well be a drive shaft, a lose exhaust could rattle under acceleration and cornering, jack the car up and have a poke around at the exhaust, and while its in the air give the wheel in question a spin, ull feel if its the bearing or other bits, should spin rather smoothly (make sure the cars...

if its a nylock type it can be used a few times, but if it comes off with out much resistance then id suggest replacing them, i think its a 30mm as far as i remember