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well firstly check the fuse to the unit and make sure its got power, can also follow the brake lines from the master cylinder and see if they actually go to the abs unit etc, may also be an idea to get hold of a diagnostic machine or find someone that will be able to manually activate the abs...

That should be a fairly constant cycle, as you can see there are a few times when it fails to cycle fully and stops short, this may point towards your rough idle, how do the fuel trims look? also have a look at your map sensor graph at idle... ive had a few dirty map sensors give trouble over...

the abs light should come on if there are any problems, and should not be able to lock up, have you always had the car? someone may have bypassed the unit or something?

disconnect the cable from the clutch fork and pull the ratchet for the auto adjust mechanism back? may need to remove a spring on the pedal, cant remember all the details when i did mine

should be showing temps somewhere, normally when they go bad they show some wierd temp like 45 degrees c or they read a lot higher or lower that actual temps when the radio is off what does it display?

why not run a separate fused line from the battery?

tried a set looking for more light, unless the headlights are designed for leds, i wouldnt bother putting them in, got a w pattern of light making it a pain to adjust and level and the lighting was crap, and they burned out after a few days, went and bought proper led headlights with everything...

they should turn and clip in and out, as for movement, they wont move by hand by pushing or pulling on the rod, worm gears inside so its self locking, only hand adjustment is the little while screw on the top, unless you have tested the motor and its not working? theres a little ball socket...

not ideal, but it does not move much so should be fine

have it epoxy coated?

it is possible, as above it depends on the HU, i have a kenwood in mine and there is a cable available for it but its half the price of the radio... soooo I soldier on and expend lots of energy moving my arm to adjust stuff on the HU itself :tongueout:

itll be in the fuse/ relay box by the battery in the engine bay, if you give more details of the car, someone on here could point out which relay it is

i recall the torque on the nut being in the region of 40 to 45nm, but I just generally make it tight, (1 grunt tight as the landrover guys say) since most of the nuts are nyloc nowdays anyway, ball joints come pre greased, some of them have a grease nipple on the back but if it dosnt then there...

I had a problem with the earth near the brake fluid reservoir that was causing ideling and cluster problems, moved it to a different spot and its been fine ever since, also had some problems with the plug going to the throttle body, I always say its worth going through all the plugs and earths...

they should be easy to unplug, jut squeeze the ring on each side and pull and wiggle... the fun part is getting the end off the hose and putting a new one on...

check if you are getting voltage to the regulator before you go and throw parts at it, pull the door card off if you want to be sure or if you know what colors the wires are for the regulator then you can disconnect the loom in the door jam and test at the plug...

may have just worked itself lose, highly doubt that though, there is a little o-ring inside that may be damaged, its a special O-ring, fuel resistant etc so you cant just lob any generic thing in there... or it may be time to replace the fuel lines and do away with them quick release plugs...

cant tell you but laying new cable is easy enough, besides, replacing that thin oem speaker wire with good stuff makes a world of difference

there should be a oil level indication when you switch the ignition on

do a boost test... you will easily be able to locate the leak... if there is one otherwise take the inlet pipe off the turbo and see how much play there is in the core, a little up and down movement is ok and i mean a little, but there should be no axial movement

have you tried a diagnostic to see what the sensors are doing? compression test is also quick and easy

have you tried cleaning the earths? there are 5 of them i think

my map sensor gave similar problems, bad connection on its plug as well as a bad earth by the brake fluid reservoir

yep, trial and error for the win

had same problems again previously, one time it was bad connections on the spark plugs to the coils, the mushroom heads were all melted from the arcing, the second time, it was a combination of a slowly failing tdc sensor, and a bad earth, particularly the earth by the brake fluid reservoir...

haynse says 43nm, dosnt seem that tight :nomouth:

I had a similar problem, first try it would try, splutter and die, second time runs perfect, for me it was a combination of a dirty map sensor as well as the coil packs not making proper connection to the plugs

well, seems like he wants a complete replacement engine... thats what google translate recons anyway...

the wires going to the motor?

im sure it would be a normal spade connector, unless renault has its own fancy plug in which case putting spade connectors on it would be a simple solution