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They usually are pretty tight in there, sometimes breaking them is the only way

There is usually a spring loaded tensioner on the belt, slaken this off and you can pry the old one off and put a new one on... if theres no tensioner then the adjustment is on the altinator

I use one of them testers with a light in it to see the pulse...

the gearbox internals will still be spinning (drive side) with the wheels, so could be low on oil or in need of a oil change, also, a bearing can be toast and still have no play but they tend to make grumbeling noises and not whining, if you can, jack up and spin the wheels, they should spin...

Might also be the throttle pedal

Did you use non residue electrical cleaner?

Check your fuses and relays on the passenger side of the dash and in the engine bay, as well as the earth straps to the starter...

if you switch your ignition on, then off, then on again you should hear the fuel pump prime for a second, could be uch problem, could be a sticky fuel pump relay, i doubt its the tdc sensor as then you would have fuel and no spark... could also be a faulty fuel pump or connectors, when it dosnt...

never come across it personally, and it seems its not the problem in this case...

yea crank sensor wont cause a miss, will either run or it wont, i recon you need to go through the loom and make sure all the earths are good and clean, bad earths can cause a host of problems...

have you tested to make sure all the injectors and coil packs are firing / getting signal? could be a loom problem

yea the relays are in the box next to the battery, its one of the small black ones, just pull them out and clean them or swap around and see if the problem goes somewhere else...

there are two coolant sensors, one on the block and one on the radiator, might be a bad connection on the one on the radiator... or a bad relay

it should move, that way its always keeping tension, if its locked solid then it may be too tight...

my map sensor was giving similar problems, got oil in it over time, gave it a good clean and it made a world or difference, also solved some cold starting issues, best thing is to get a obd reader with live data and see what the sensors are doing as u drive...

do you want one that sits in the shroud or something that mounts directly to the radiator?

When ever ive rebuilt endines ive always had everything re machined... not always needed i guess... but its peace of mind...

Ive personally never heard of a motor failing, bit of a rare case, cant you source a second hand unit?

not exactly sure, just measure the hinge spacing's on both and make sure they are the same... with a hammer and some welding anything can be made to fit :wink:

have you checked the fuse to the power steering motor and the connections, you should still have steering unless the motor is ceased, or it is the actual rack, if the cars not under warrantee, id just diagnose if the motor or the rack is the problem and get some parts from the scappy

can always re-build it mate, new bottom end bearings, line bore, check the rings and stuff...

i remember reading about some similar problems, was a UCH fault as far as I remember, UCH is a relay board under the passenger side of the car... but being French, if your spare tyre dosnt have enough pressure in it, it could cause this. in all seriousness, I would think its a fault on the uch...

hmm, running on 3 cylinders would point to a bad injector or coil pack

aluminium forms a protective oxide layer so don't worry about corrosion, Vaseline is a good idea, otherwise do a light clear coat on them

as above, could be a lambda, could also be an air leak on the manifold causing lumpy idle or and exhaust leak confusing the lambdas, to rule out an air leak take some starting spray and spray around the intake manifold gaskets and any vacuum pipe connectors, map/maf/intake temp sensors... if...

if you unplug the vacuum hose do you still get full breaking power, ive had a case where the diaphragm was damaged which some how gave the car on or off breaks... but since you say the servo has been checked and there is clicking id re build the master cylinder, may have dislodged a o-ring or...

wont let me play the vid, did your mechanic also check the other wheels for bearing play and noises? could also be a warped brake disk or lose pad, does the nose go away during braking at all?

Well there is a selector seal kit that can be changed without taking the box out but it dosnt last, best is to take the box out and do it properly, as for a headgasket... im a bit sceptic about that, there are usualy other symptoms if it blows...

have to upload the vid to photobucket or a similar site then embed the link here

Check all the fuses as well, give everything a wiggle