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Could you post a vid or sound recording mate?

Have u tried the steering with the car on jacks? Mabe the springs are catching on the shock towers?

Could be, otherwise its from the selector seal

Buy new and buy once as they say, might be worth sealing it with silicone ? Not much pressure there

No holes in the exhaust?

idle problems can be caused by vacuum leaks, bad ICV ,throttle body problems, Map sensor, bad connections onto the TB, my first bet would be to see if there are any vacuum leaks,

Any air bag fault will bring a light, fix it and see if it goes off, otherwise get a code reader to see what its complaining about

I can get them from the local body work and paint shop, call them pannel clips here

should be able to take the shaft apart and change the gator, otherwise a split gator may be a option, if its been running dry for a while then id replace or repair if the cups have not worn too much...

as long as the threads are the same pitch, you could run a normal bolt...

check your brake fluid level, you will need to bleed the system if it has run low and sucked in some air..

Bottom hose is about the best way, a long drip tray would work about the best but coolant will still find a way to the floor, taking the stat out will only drain the head, there should be a drain plug on the block somewhere if you want to do a full flush, although i wouldnt really worry about...

to be honest i didnt even notice that lol, well played

did you go fetch the rock? put it on the wall of shame??

my one cancels the auto lock if i open and close the boot, mabe mines just special though...

Tig would be a neater weld, or as above, look for a different setup...

Cast iron can be welded, if you have a tig welder or the right sticks for a normal stick welder and a cutting torch you can do it youself or take it to a welding shop... when welding cast iron you have to heat up both sections first, with the torch then weld, then let it cool down as slowly as...

if you want to rule out some stuff, take the aux belt off and fire it up, if the noise is still there then you know its either the cambelt side of things or internal to the engine, if the noise is gone then you know its something aux belt driven, with the aux belt off give all the pullies a...

Mines always had that noise... among other noises lol

Theres not much give on the clutches in these cars, pedal is self adjusting and the biting point is usually high, just a trait, you will get used to it

yea map is the one at the top of the manifold, nearest the tb and the inlet temp sensor is injector side... good to know mines not the only one that stalls when its disconnected :smile:

Never use grease or oil on electrical connectors if possible, it creates a boundery layer and will eventally start to arc and lose connection when the carbon builds up... clean it up with electrical non residue cleaner, bend the pins a bit and carry on...

f21 runs the uch which controls most things on the car, could try giving all the plugs and earths a clean? could try unplugging the wiring to the doors, cluster, radio etc... anything that the uch runs

normal draw on the battery should be in the 11-15 milli amp range, what ive experienced in the past is a higher draw in the 100 milli amp range wont be a problem as the battery can take this for a while, but the constant discharge will damage the battery over time, especially if left for a...

could also get a mini cat, basically a little socket looking thing that fools the sensor into thinking the cat is still there... this is much cheaper than a re map

some of the radios have 4 little holes, one in each corner, need a bit of brazzing rod or something to release the clips through the holes, if its a after market radio then it may have a shroud around the edging where the face goes, this needs to be pulled off then you should see the slot on...

Right a slight update, oddly enough the idle went very low in the same place it did last time, this time the revs showed zero then it slowly built up to normal idle again, didnt stop or actually stall, drove around a bit and gave it the beans, this made it idle high... so on a hunch i unplugged...

I always let mine warm up first to allow the revs to drop, could be a cts or lambda issue as well if its not getting the correct coolant temp or the lambdas arnt heating up properly it can cause come fueling problems...

depends if your car has all the wiring for the fogs already, sometimes its just a case of adding a relay or fuse and the rest of the wiring is there, sometimes theres no wiring, just go through and check behind your bumper to see if there is already wiring for the fogs...

your coilovers might just be height adjustable, tie rod looks fine, drive shaft is normal