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they should be replaced for the same ones, there are two different types, computer may adjust but im not sure

get it plugged in before you start replacing stuff

hi and welcome to the forum id check the oil level first of all, the selector seals have a habit of leaking... if its low you can try topping it up however wining noises on overrun could lead to a box re-build if it is the box... normally the syncros give up before anything else, so it might...

not sure exactly, i would think its a left and a right but take the carrier off and compare... needs to be exactly the same

had this a while back, ended up being a bad connection on two of the spark plugs, coils were arcing and melting the mushrooms on the plugs, those were on ngk plugs, been running bosch and its been fine since then can also be bad injectors or a dirty fuel filter, failing fuel pump

yea sometimes those switches play up... its french, if you don't pay it enough attention it'll sulk :smile:

post cat sensor would put the eml light on if there is a problem with the cat or its sensing something strange, at the end of the day they just measure the exhaust gas, unless the sensors are old and burnt they wont cause any problems, as above, if there is a leak on one of the injectors it...

as above the offset should be at the bottom if you are timing for tdc, you have to loosen at least one of the pulleys to time up properly, just do not use the cam locking tool to hold the cams in place when loosening or tightening the pulley bolts, you have to use the pulley locking tool...

both sensors are the same, only difference is the different length of the wire, there are two different sensors that the clios have, one has a long nose like the one you have in the link and there is also a shorter one, best is just to pull your post cat sensor since its easy to get to and pull...

the leak in the exhaust would confuse the post cat sensor, however this sensor should read a fairly constant voltage if your cat is working properly, if your cat is shot then it will follow fairly closely to the pre cat lambda... air leak in the exhaust or a dead cat would bring up the light...

might be a sump off job

fuses are there to protect stuff so if the fuse blows a more important component was saved...

Tdc sensor has a habit of building up filings and gunk, its good to give all the plugs and sensors a clean every few years

Can only be shorting out somewhere, likley in the area that you have been working, if theres one bad splice theres probably more...

engine load is calculated by using the map sensor, can take it out and give it a clean, if you are having idling issues or bogging from cold start this also points to the map sensor... most generic obd readers will only read 1 fuel trim, the other will be max or min, the one it reads should vary...

yea they make a fairly audible tick, most just disconnect them

that seems like a dead battery to me

You could have burnt the clutch plates while in the parking, this will mean that the surfaces are either burnt and polished or worn away... only way to see is box out so you might as well replace it and be done with it...

can get an original from Renault or a split after market one, if oil is coming through then you will need to replace the lip seals as well

dont mind me, net is so slow it posted twice lol

will need to be under load to make noise if its the box... try run it in the air and lightly put the brakes on

its possessed, set it on fire!!! are they xenon lights or halogen?

will need to be under load to make noise if its the box... try run it in the air and lightly put the brakes on

only way to fix it is to repeatedly drive over it, burn it and then use it as a chopping board... then you have an excuse to get another one:tongueout:

as far as i know one should be a constant feed and the other a trigger, they are wired in pairs though, sounds like a short, have you done a diagnostics read on it?

Did you check the wires going to the injectors and the earths ?

It will take a while to bed in

yea a garage wont charge much labor to do it, half a hour a side max, the expensive part is the mounts... paid around 100 bucks (5 pounds) for a set of spring compressors or clamps, what ever you want to call them.

mine runs rough after left for a while sometimes, put it down to sticky injectors, pull the plugs out and look for signs of over fueling or under fueling, you will be able to tell if the injectors are working properly from that, could be a bad connection in a plug or some damage somewhere in the...

i used a breaker bar between the wishbone and arb to compress the rubber enough to get the bolt on... bolt the arb onto the sub frame clamps first so it hangs there then bolt onto the wishbones