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could be possible depending on the vvt system... ecu would need a custom map

could glue em back... if you dont want them to come off again.

Ok changed the tdc sensor... now showing 200 rpm when engine is off, so ill put thst down to just beeing french... checked the cts, all good, gave the tcb a clean, although it wasnt that dirty it made a big diference to the idle and response of the throttle.... will see how it goes when its semi...

Immobiliser light should be on solid when starting

Ill give the tb a clean, j4mes, have you got any idling issues? 250 rpm might just be a french thing... might try plugging a new sensor in and see what it reads

ok i lied... oil light should not be on with the engine off... my bad

were the pullies changed with the belt? as for the wheel rubbing against the belts, have you got wider tires fitted? standard i cant see how the wheel would touch the belt, no matter how low it is... if that were the case many people would be complaining about belt rub when cornering fast...

howsit gents, noticing a problem when starting the car while its still warm, at least 70 to 80 deg on the coolant temp, itll start fine then the revs will drop very low after the initial starting blip before it climbs to around 750 again, while reading live data I noticed that with the engine...

While turning over the immobiliser light should be on solid, if its flashing then it has activated, stop and oil pressure lights will be on if the engine is stationary... as its stopped... and theres no oil pressure, check if you have spark and fuel

bad lambda sensor wouldnt stop the car from running as the ecu will just use the map sensor for fueling, could make it run lumpy and loss of power, the speed sensor may be mucking things up...

electronic TB usually buzzes continuously

they dont fail all the time, its one of those things that almost every clio owner has to do... like faulty hazard light switches and bad connections on the rear clusters...

yep, common item to fail, glad its sorted

jump started a car once using a rc lipo battery... however the lightness will come at a cost... lithium batteries are not cheap and normally have a usable life of 2 years... there are quite a few available for cars, id recommend going for a good brand...

mabe hes driving so fast the spare is spinning in the boot :tongueout:

get a multi meter and measure the current draw with the car off... if its more that 10-15 milliamps then you got something pulling it down... common thing is the tracker alarm systems like netstar, had exactly the same problem... after 5 batteries dead in short succession caused by the trackers...

get urself a manual for the car, 8v engines are pretty simple to do belts on, follow the manual and you cant go wrong

have you checked the wires to the horn button... see if it goes closed circuit when you press it using a multi meter... if thats not it then you will have to follow the wires till you find a problem...

yea driver side is hella tight with all the aircon plumbing in the way

most white lights like the night breakers and after market xenons seem weak on the clio, im running night breakers at the moment, and in some instances they seem better than standard bulbs but in the damp or rain they are absolutely useless, still cant beat normal halogen bulbs...

hmm, sounds like a lose connection to me, common one is the white plug in the engine bay fuse box, no harm in going through them all though

if it was working fine before and then suddenly did this then id go through all the earth straps, relays, fuses and connectors and give me all a clean... plug corrosion causes a host of problems, when coil packs die the engine will still run, be it on 2 cylinders... where there any warning...

lol they wont take that long to change, i did mine in 10 mins... although it must be said a hot engine forces you to speed up the process 😂

They are a pig to get to but no need to remove the bumper or the clusters

U dont need to stick them down... they have metal loops in the moulding that keeps the channels shape... they just push on, could use contact or silicone if you still want to stick them down tho

if it is bosch, grey goes to grey, green to black and the pink and brown wires go to the remaining 2 white wires

black would indicate a rich mixture, which points to the injector...

injector could be leaking, this would normally cause running issues though what colour is the soot on the plugs?

what lambda sensor is it? bosch?

Could have been a bad vacuum hose as well but yea, sounds like a servo problem