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No throth now, wheels a bit firmer than before but it should be with the new rack. No whines. Just gotta test it now! Been a massive mission doing this and new custom lines as well
@bloke Belt wasnt off. I have just turned it on, whined a bit, turned the wheel, topped up a few times, about a litre in now, went pink throthy. I kept the cap off to see and now it seems to have settled. How do I know if its done its thing, does the throth settle down? Shall I leave the cap...
Just checking it only needs for fluid to be topped up and turned lock to lock a bunch of times? I just filled the system, it took 0.5L, turned it lock to lock and fluid basically hasnt gone down, It took the fluid very quick. Its too late to start it now but will it be fine? Should I start it...
Thanks for your advice. Just finished the last fitting, the teflon line is the return from the rack and the blue is the high pressure, was not easy to do those fittings, there were about 40 threads to turn lol
With some heat sleeve as well
Ordered the nut from renault and bought some high tensile bolts off ebay. The cars been off the road for 8 days just doing the quick rack, lines broken, bolts seized, every step something happens!
Had some trouble with one of the rears and it wouldnt budge with the impact so ended up cutting the head of the bolt off, subframe now off just realised they are a countersunk type nut. I dont have my laptop with me for dialogys, anyone got a part number or can point me in the right direction...
Set them to about 8 clicks from soft and see then. Without the helper you’d have minimal height adjustment, I don’t think it would be caused by loose springs, unless at full drop the helper is at max length and you need another helper to seat the helper ;)
What rebound setting are they at? Spring rate? Mine had a distinct ‘spring’ sound but the clunking was minimal, seemed to remember they got better over time. They will clunk if the spring rate is too high/low for the valving.
I had to take the inners off and lower the rack to turn the whole rack round, could probably do the reverse for the new rack but I’ll just get another line. Now to look at the rear bolt.
I tried but it started to bend the pipe! I started to take the subframe off but the rear bolt started spinning, I got a spanner on it and held my makita open and it won’t budge, rated to 1600nm.. I went back to the rack and the 19mm is freed but the other is not moving. I was gonna take off the...
The 17 line is stuck in the union so the whole thing turns, but I can’t turn it more to break the seal as that semi circle metal, I suppose it’s backup thing if they line comes in done?
I’ve cracked open both lines and drained fluid, but the 17mm line won’t turn as it has this metal to stop it from turning..? The 19mm won’t come out as the 17 is blocking it, wtf do I do?!
Upside down pic
@Scrooge I ended up buying a whole set so should be much easier. Dont suppose you could tell me a low stress/mess way of draining the pas fluid? if I take off the the 2 hoses going into the rack will they be faily easy to quickly put into a bucket? The cars all jacked up now with the rack ready...
@Filters
No worries mate. Reason I ask is I had mine corner weighted and setup not so long ago and above 70mph it was a bit too responsive, its on 2.6 camber with factory toe but with increased caster so it still has good stability, it just felt like when you started the turn it was a dart, but...
@Scrooge What sizes are the fittings from rez and the pump, 17mm and 19 or both 17? Just found some swivel crows foot spanner attachments that should make this a bit easier
Have you done it mate? I just bought a16mm ratchet spanner and swivel socket so I can gun 3 bolts off and the other will still be quicker than before. Hpas quick rack fitting next week!
And you don’t need to remove it like that, it comes out as one peice, forgot but the servo stays attached aswell even, is not that fiddly really, can be all out in 15 mins or less, I have no sound deadening so quick bolt access, and I use a socket drill
So the pedal is firm when the mc and vac lines are disconnected? Don’t quite understand about the push rod off centre but there is pedal travel in the servo before the push rods move.
Mine is pretty equal and Ive had a few share of pot holes, think the previous owner had an accident as well and its still pretty good. Adjustable top mounts but set the same.