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After reading other threads I went for 90/110 and for road its perfectly fine. Im not sure why most people say they are too stiff but mine are very smooth and compliant, if mine was a full track/race car Id be more like 100/120.
I had 80/80 when I first got mine and it was unbearable soft (more...
Ive got a feeling its that tbf. The wheel is very light for a small amount, I dont see how the rack mounts or ends would be loose enough for you to be able to move the whole system with ease. The quick release I have is solid as well.
@adir I would be very interested in looking at the rack as you said but I have corner weighting and alignment this monday ? Not something I could do quick.
I also have a welded lower uj like you, it was unreal when I first drove the car with it, taking slow corners at 30mph was moving me around...
For whole long ive had them on they wouldnt even be good for a racecar thats dealing with a lot of more stress. They are arms for a nissan s15 for drifting so should be pretty strong!
Its back... Got a feeling its the rack bushes or mounts, has to be since I know full well all tie ends are very new and solid. Need to source those nylon one that were used on the old cup racers.
Standard ecu, I bought a cup one but it was the same. Purely just the the forward loom is required. You could use a cup gearbox jc5-129 and youd need the engine loom as well to retain speed and mileage.
I dont know much about wiring/electrics but in my 182 I removed the abs and used a 172 cup forward loom which cleared all the lights. Something to do with the pin outs I have no idea but it worked!
Probably the best way to test the car on the way to gym, that way if it packs up pushing it back can be part of the workout, though I probably would still get a tow if I was 2 doors down lol
@OssPoop No quote yet, just wanted to get a ball park figure! As I didnt think it would take that long as you said, have no idea what this sort of thing costs, am doing a few other bits in the next couple of weeks for brakes and cant have things keep adding up
For those that got their calipers and/or brackets trim'd to size, what sort of price did they charge? Just so I have an idea if they're overcharging or not. I plan on taking in the hub with everything bolted on so it can be done to match the disc size exact
Im on pc so may never even get the game.. But it seems its got quite a few flaws, ones the 10/10 reviewers dont talk about because theyve only played the game for a few hours and are still in the honey moon phase, or they were paid by Rockstar...
I run ast 4100s with 110n rear and 90n fronts, just had the rears fully serviced and valved for the springs. They are very smooth and I have no trouble using them on the road, in fact they are a better ride than my dads ford focus, including mine has their top mounts as well.. They really are...
@Mbeau Yeah the arch liners! I couldnt think of what they were called at the time ? I have the same problem though now, on coilovers with 16's and funny it is more the nearside as well. The metal that help attaches the bumper is the culprit, I had to bend back one of the horns as well..
A...
You might find under heavy braking the front end compresses loads and the wheels rub in the arches, if you havnt taken the bumper liners out it could be worth it
Needed to go back to the oem calipers temporarily but sold the lines, ordered fittings yesterday done today, super easy!
Like to add if you do make your own system use as much hardline as you can, its quicker than doing braided and is more efficient. This is what Im doing from my own...