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JC5 129 I think. Says on it somewhere, take the airbox out and I think you can see it.

Fuel rail guard is for safety as the fuel rail is plastic. That lump under the engine mount is only on 182s - not on my cup anyway.

I deffo don't get no click.

I think parker's says 182 6.9, 172 7.1 and 172 cup 6.7 :-)

When I hit the AC button the light comes on but the air isn't any cooler. Also on other cars I've had with AC when you turn it on you can hear the compressor start up and the engine labour a little because of it. But I don't get this on the 182. Thoughts? Just a re-gas or is the compressor not...

I used VHT from halfords

The only ones that are different are the 182 cup and 182 with the cup suspension. The others are all the same.

The laser one worked OK for me, didn't seem to bend. You have to get the pulley tool plus the modified pinion to fit over the VVT pulley from Renault AFAIK. I paid about 85 for the pulley locking tool and pinion. About 40 for the cam locking tool off ebay I think.

I thought with the clio the steering wheel will only go on in one position? Yes

Had my tracking done today. But they couldn't get the tracking to be correct with the wheel in the straight ahead position when driving. They had the steering wheel clamped in the correct position. But as soon as I drive off to keep the car straight I have to turn slightly to the right. The...

Mine took 2 weeks or so, come from Italy IIRC. The locking nut code is also inside the original service history book if you have that. Both my codes started FER followed by 5 numbers.

Mine is same. Also at speed 70-90 going round slight bends i.e. on a DC it feels unstable. I've eliminated top mounts - there is play but no more than there was in my cup. No play in the rack or track rods. Ball joints seem OK, although I need to double check them. Which leaves the wish bone...

They could. Other possibilities include track rods, steering rack, wish bone bushes and/or top mounts.

Lambda sensor? Get the computer read for fault codes.

I've never noticed any difference in the running of my car after servicing (oil/cam/aux) it. I wouldn't expect to unless there was something wrong with it. Always used good oil and done at correct intervals.

Who did your cam belt? Most likely the cam timing is out you need special tools to lock it all in position as the pulleys float. Phone and ask if they used the special tools for doing the cam belt. If you're handy you could check the timing otherwise it's probably an hours labour to check if you...

You change the oil when hot and after a drive as then any stuff that would settle out should still be suspended in the oil i.e. you get more of the s**t out. I've never bothered waiting until cold to check my oil. A couple of minutes standing is all you really need to get a decent reading.

You could support the engine with a jack and remove the suspended engine mounting. You can then see the inlet cam pulley and belt going around it. They don't always show any signs before failure...

It's a pain, one place quoted me 18.50 a wheel. 10 quid a corner was best I found that was convenient. Small independents should sort you out, or even a part worn place if any still exist any more. Someone built houses where my local guy used to be.

The 182 cup hubs are supposedly "stronger". I also heard someone say they had slightly different geometry giving a slightly "better" feel. Can't say I've noticed the difference myself. I wouldn't say it was worth changing the hubs.

Ph2 FBW throttle doesn't have an ICV AFAIK. I've never replaced the seal but sometimes it falls out when putting the plenum back on.

Have you checked the rubber seal under the plenum is correctly in place? I doubt you can tell without removing it again.

It is normally the battery even though there are no other signs. Do a search it is quite common.

You can check the belt routing see page 7-3 for how it should go: http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

You can rectify it but it is probably cheaper to get a second hand engine. It would involve at least head off and work on the valves and possible work on the pistons/bores as well.

I think it sounds normal. You are probably just more aware of it now than before. If you're comparing it to the force required for the clutch, try braking with your left foot, if you're not used to it you'll find you stop pretty quick!

http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Have you got the belt on right? I put mine on wrong this weekend, and it did exactly what you describe. It should come over the top of the crank pulley then down under the water pump I had the belt go over the water pump to start with and go round it from underneath.

http://www.readyforthetrack.co.uk/2008/10/ride-heights-camber-shims-camber-bolts-and-setting-up-suspension/