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On an 172/182 engine.
I have the pin to lock the crank for tensioning the cam belt and setting the timing but I've heard people talking about a tool to lock the crank via the fly wheel for tightening the crank pulley bolt. Previously I've used a screw driver but this never feels 100%...
With DS2500 and braided lines my pedal was noticeably much harder right from the off IIRC.
Did you bleed the old fluid out completely before put the new in because apparently if you do that you'll have real trouble getting all the air out of the abs mechanism. You're supposed to just put the...
There is a new custom manifold on the way that should see you to 200 bhp with std ECU.
Search for supercup.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=396928&highlight=super+cup
This could be normal and the travel is simply the rear brake compensator reducing the rear brake effort as it is supposed to do. Are you familiar with cup's braking setup?
Do the brakes work normally apart from this i.e. they stop you normally?
I didn't remove the alternator, I just removed the PS pump pulley and that allowed the tensioner out.
You need to buy/fabricate a "special" tool to detension the belt. There is a 3/8" square drive hole next to the tensioner idler. You need to find something that will fit in and that you can get...
Main performance differences:
RS lower inlet manifold - came in late 172s as well has better match to the head
4-2-1 exhaust manifold
smaller cat
better map (in the ecu)
There are only the two bolts. I assume you have actually removed the bottom bolt and not just undone it?
There is a little sleeve in the bottom bolt hole NOT pulley side, it may be that this is making it seem like the bolt is still in. You should be able to prise it out a bit with a screw...
It's a pain to do. You need someone to hold the other end of the bolts between mani and cat from above while you undo them from below because you can't get your hand round to the other side of them. You have to get it pretty high on stands as well to be able to lie under there in relative...
It's the ones with the nous that set up as specialists and the ones without who stay in that nice safe job with a big manufacturer, but obviously there are some good ones ;). The guy in this thread has clearly been over charged. That is no doubt more to do with how the garage is run than the...
Probably the cam cover. If you're lucky it'll be coming up a bolt hole and you can take it (the bolt) out and put some sealant under the bolt head.
Otherwise it's cambelt off to remove the cam cover and re-seal it. I think.
If it isn't bad I wouldn't worry about it.
Sorry not as part of the original oil service, but when they decided the cambelt needed doing they should also have said the plugs as well as they are on the same service interval.
Crack smoking Renault dealers explains a lot actually ;)
It is probably worth getting quotes for those jobs from...
Plugs are 5 years/72k. I know someone who has the original plugs in at 125k with no probs. Mine looked fine 72k when I replaced them.
The NGK plugs are the ones Renault use and they're 35 quid from a typical motorfactors.
They were due at the service so why didn't they replace them with...
Sounds like they booked you in for a basic service i.e. oil and filters.
Once they had you on the hook they then "realised" the big 5 year service was overdue. Which is basically everything they did before they started their trial and error fault finding techniques.
The prices are pretty...
That won't work if you leave the bottom cover on. Just have a look and clean it up if necessary so you can see where it is coming from. If it is that bad it should be obvious.
Follow the pad guide. When the pads are off:
Remove the calliper holder from the hub, 2 bolts
Probably best to do this next step before you remove the pads actually - then if needs be you can use the brakes to hold the disc still. Remove the 2 bolts retaining the disc to the hub. They are often...