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hmm.... cant upload pics.... :( But anyway it is easy to find... (easy for me to say, as I know where it is) LOL ;) Michael

They all get dodgy at some point... Basicly they are crap!!! The sender unit is on the rear of the engine, right hand side, below the manifold. You can access it from both on top and below the car. The oil pressure warning light sender is on the front of the engine next to the filter, and so is...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmhttp://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm It says near the bottom why to change the oil.. He recommends oil and filter change after the first 20 miles of running in a new engine... might be the same with new cams... @jimbo1a: used cam lube...

You need to change the oil and filter for a couple of reasons. 1: A small amount of dirt will always, no matter how carefull are, collect inside the engine when you take it apart and put it back together again. And dirt is a killer!!!!! 2: Microscopic debris might come off the cams when...

Superb!!!! Got them on my race car.... Michael

Peter read the FAQ on both the Piper Cam and Kent Cam sites. As I recall they say that you should not let it idle but run the engine at about 2000 rpm to keep up the oil pressure. Must admit that I have never used this method. Istall, drive carefully, let them harden, change the oil, then...

Got one too.... works a treat!!! Mine sucks air from the bumper.... Pics later!! Michael

1: clean ISCV, 2: water and/or air inlet temp sensors... ISCV: smal electric motor that controls how much air enters the engine when throttle is closed, ie. keeping engine at idle. Sounds like the ever troublesome ISCV... clean it and see what happens... but could be a faulty temp sensor...

Like Bubbles said: What side skirt are they??? They look WOW!!! Nice car!! :D Michael

Bleu Sport: 449 Michael

Yep... engine out job... sadly!!! Have to do mine too, as I wrecked 2. gear syncromesh doing a 402m run Michael

This is mine.. doing a little zig zag action... Hmm.... not as low as others!!! But low enough!! Michael http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1063998617__29_Snork.jpg

Go to your local Renault dealer, and have them put on the XR25, to read out any errors... My guess is a faulty temp sensor, probably water temp, as the air temp sensor ind the manifold rarely messes up... But could be the lambda sensor... After installing the 2L with the Prima chip/box, have...

Great to hear!! How many rows is the oilcooler? Waiting for my pistons to be finished. Am getting valve pockets machined in them. CANT WAIT!!!! So car is running great, but still with the "small" engine. Finally finished fitting my BMC filter. Only need the final touches such as samco/sfs...

Dont worry.... It will arrive... But it did take 2 weeks for my items too arrive... Maybe its because theres a little bit of water in between GB and Norway/mainland Europe??? Have you fixed your car?! :) Michael

Im doing a 2,1L conversion right now.... Using std. crank balanced with a lightened flywheel. Lightened and balanced rods using 85mm Peugeot 206GTI pistons. They are very light weight and the piston sleaves has a very nice teflon coating. There is a lot of work in this, as the pistons has to be...

Yep... it will break away... I would recommend using the Loctite products such as: 5922 or 5972 (high temp) Michael

You need a proper automotive sealant, resistant to oil, petrol, heat etc. Dunno if its silicone based. It comes in a variety of different applications. Smear an unbroken line of sealant on the totally clean surface. Put the parts together. It will cure/harden under pressure when u tigthen the...

I never use OE paper gaskets, only head gasket and sealing rings... Never had any problems using sealant.... Michael

Forget using the OE gasket.... it will leak at some point.... use silicon based sealant instead.... Michael

Could be the gasket! But could alse be you!!! When pouring oil into the engine, it is easy to get oil in between the hole and the plastic cover. The oil will work its way down to the plugs!!!! Michael

Heres a pic for u!!! Michael http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1063309852__Takthjul.jpg

Comparing the profiles of both the Kent and the Piper cams ive got, the Piper cams seems to have a profile (lumpier) I think/hope will aid a better filling of the cylinders.. It sort of looks more modern!? I choose a mild cam for my next project because i want to tourqe and not necessarily top...

ups... too late!!!! :)

It adjusts the rear breaking.. under heavy load (like 10 nice girls in the back)the rear suspension beam will move upwards putting the spring under tension, and the car will brake harder at the rear. When lowering the car it is important to re adjust this, so the car wont brake to much.. locking...

Yep.... A lot of work changing cams on the valver...

You can remove alot of weight from the outer rim of the fly wheel (rear of wheel)... The outer weight will always be the most heavy when rotating... But be carefull as the starter ring is heated on the fly wheel (leave some material, so heat soaks up better) Can post pics later (std. fly vs...

The Kent Cams set no. RN2003 works fine... no rough idling and a nice power increase throghout the rev range... Along with SS zorst, headwork (and cam springs), filter and remap I gained approx 35 BHP... Working on a 2,1L conversion but this time using a Piper cam R16VBP285H as this cam...

Hand brake cable wont affect normal breaking... If it does anyway (less breaking) get it checked NOW!!!! actually the car should brake harder after lowering, as the valve at the beam is under harder tension(spring) Michael

All the above!!!! ECU needs all the relevant info to run the engine... It could also be a temp sensor (inlet manifold / or water temp sensor in the housing LH side engine) Michael