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Lambas replaced with NGKs. It actually idles really well, and starts first time. Only issue i have is this slight surging at constant low rpm throttle. (And the fact it failed on fast idle emmissions...Retest on Weds, and i've even resorted to a can of Cataclean) The air temp sensor is indeed...

Good idea. Inlet manifold and throttle body gaskets spring to mind. Any tips on finding a leak other than spraying carb cleaner around the engine?

At the risk of firing the parts cannon - which of the above parts would likely cause surging on very light, constant throttle? ie, cruising in 5th at 60mph I've done the basics, leads, coil, plugs and also changed MAP sensor and cleaned throttle body. I wonder if the sensor in the pedal is at...

Did the filter help? Vaughan - are you saying the speed sensor could cause the surging AND the speedo wobble? I've got exactly the same hesitation at very light throttle, in fact you explained it really well. Much more noticeable in 4th and 5th, and considering how little throttle i've applied...

Should be able to remove the head unit and test for continuity (assuming the head unit has symbols at the plug)

So don't know if anyone is actually reading this, but will keep posting as it may help some poor sod in the future. The only things on fuse 29 i haven't unplugged are the clock and consumer cut. What is the Consumer cut out?? Cant find anything on google.

Matt, did you find the source of this drain on fuse 29? I've got the same problem.

The latter... Disconnected wing mirrors and no change. Other than checking earths, wiring condition and disconnecting alternator - is there any other basics i should be checking, before i resort to pulling the dash to bits and disconnecting things? Could the constant live that feeds fuses 21...

Ok, well sadly this didn't fix it. Its something that runs through fuse 29 and 21. So will try and disconnect the mirrors tomorrow. Do you know if one of the relays under the glove box should click when the battery is connected but ignition off?

Sorry, i misunderstood your post. I thought you were saying i was ignoring you.. So, should i be disconnecting alternator from the alternator end, and not just the battery live?

You suggested disconnecting the alternator, so i did. Maybe i didn't do it correctly. but i didn't ignore your advice.

Ah so the live from the alternator splits off before reaching the battery it seems.. Whats the best way to fully isolate the alternator then? Removing the heavy live from the side of it? Appreciate the input btw

Interesting you had a mirror short out, i will try and disconnect mine I don't understand why basic things like mirrors and clock, are on the same single fuse as instruments and ECU related things. Makes fault finding a PITA.

Not sure why its puzzling.. I disconnected the alternator from the equation, and the draw on the battery did not change. Am i missing something then?

Alternator doesn't seem to be the cause. Cleaned engine bay earths up, and will do gearbox earth tomorrow. Both of those fuses have to be removed to rectify the problem.. 21 = Multi timer, Diagnostic socket, Central locking, Instrument panel and decoder unit 29 = Consumer cut out, Interior...

Replacing the battery wont help. I have an excessive drain coming from this circuit. I think 100 milliamps is acceptable drain, and i have +250Ma.

How do i go about disconnecting, central locking, instrument panel, clock etc? I know what circuit this fault is on, but not sure how to narrow it down

So after leaving my 172 for 3 months over winter, it has developed a parasitic battery drain. I've narrowed it down to fuse 21 and 29 (when removed, the drain stops) 21 = Multi timer, Diagnostic socket, Central locking, Instrument panel and decoder unit 29 = Consumer cut out, Interior light...

So did it fail the first test?

Interesting you mention bad earth. It also failed on one of the lights not working when the indicator is on. Seeing as its been sat for three months in the winter, it seems to have some earthing issues.

Zero wisdom, just shrugged his shoulders. Time for a new garage i think, the original owner seems to have left two chavs to run it. If the Lambda is at fault, should i be getting any signs? As i say, it drives fine.

Thanks Boost, results above. Just noticed he didnt actually do a second test.. Another thing to note, the car has been sat for three months, and oil was not changed (planned to do it after the MOT). However, this, or exhaust leaks, dont explain why the dash lights and revs went ape whilst he...

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This thread was the first result Google gave me, so thought id add to this instead of making yet another emissions based thread.. So my car (172 ph2) drives fine with no problems, good economy etc. but has just failed MOT for Lambda reading (exactly the same results as Matt posted above) I...

Just wanted to thank the OP for this. I had to repair my washer bottle today, and would never have noticed that lug for the mechanism. So saved me pulling it apart again.:up:

Will give it a go.

Apologies for what is probably a common subject here.. Just want some views before i chuck more money at the car. 2002 - 172 with 100,000k . Gearbox feels fine, no crunches and changes lovely. However there is a whine from cold. Does this sound like an input bearing more than an actually Gbox...

Should the insert /bush be a tight fit in the rubber doughnut? The ones on my car don't look old,but the insert is quite loose in the rubber. Thanks

Ok well the sale didn't happen. I've repaired the minor damage, and I'm left with standard 172 new tyres, brakes and cambelt - but he's a cat d. Realistically whats that worth?

Yes it clunks as usual when locking and unlocking. But doesn't move. And ive used some force with a flathead and won't budge.