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Yeah but think of the costs involved now! 😂😂😂😂😂

I’ll wait until we’ve got something to show mate 😎

They look far too heavy. Easily an extra 50 grams. 😂😂😂😂😂

That’s someone else’s problem mate 😂😂 I blame Renault for creating problems for me with the dry sump.

As said mate, looks awesome! And a much better angle for the airflow directly into the ports from a ram air perspective. However. You forgot to mention custom steel selector forks for the gearbox. 😂

@BoostedSi had a boosted cup and still has. f**k you potato. 😂😂

For anyone else trying to read that wiring diagram, here’s a brief description: A lot of sensors are earthed internally within the ecu, so for example, pin 1 & pin 32 ignition coil control is earthed internally - this is indicated by the arrow going towards the writing in the description. So...

Try removing the relays in the engine bay fuse box mate (individually) and making sure the terminals are clean and refit. I’m pretty sure that there’s one that has something to do with power supply etc, but I’m fucked if I can remember which one. Try and start the car after you’ve checked each...

I’ll find out the PIN numbers so you can check power/earth/can

Yeah that’s the stuff mate

That’s a Quaife mate. Run it on redline mtl, or redline mt90 if you’re hammering it on track.

Yeah. You’ll have to blank a pipe off though from memory

Different breather setup

Check the white plug in the engine bay fuse box. Terminals in the plug can corrode and cause problems.

Fit the cover without sealant and tighten all the bolts down. Try and turn the cams. If they turn then happy days. If they don’t - try and find another cam cover. They’re matched from the factory in terms of the line bore for the cam journals, so in theory they shouldn’t be swapped. But it can...

Yeah not ideal. A favourite of mine is when people reseal them with about 10 foot of rtv and then wonder why it’s clogging oil ways up. 😂

To bleed mine up I just kept putting my mouth over the lip on the header tank and blowing into it. But, you’ve got to be quick when you’re letting the pressure off as you could end up with a mouthful of coolant. It’ll bubble and gurgle as the air comes out and the coolant level will drop.

Could be the cam cover leaking as well. If it is, it’s a cambelt job as the cover is integral for holding the cams in place.

£280 for me to replace the synchros on 3rd and 4th. But the box would need to be removed and brought over to me. That’s parts and labour included.

Does the expensive headset keep dropping out still? Or has it fixed itself now? 😂

The ones I have personally used are Mahle with the tags. Yeah I think they’re softer than the likes of ACL, but they’re definitely not softer than OE items mate. Well they probably w**k over them because folklore dictates that bmw got the clearances wrong on the S54 which is why the rod...

Are you sure it wasn’t a spicy floor?

Get the pec rods checked for ovality mate. They’re quite often not the best. Check the gudgeon pin clearance measured as well - again another area that’s not the best. I will only use Saenz rods, or custom made rods in the f4r builds I do now.

I’ve seen more engines fail with ‘race’ spec bearings fitted than I care to remember. They do have increased clearance on them, but that’s because they’re hard. Once scuff and you’re on the way to engine failure. On the R3 maxi engine I built for myself, I used standard mahle bearings. Still...

They do mate.

They’re all the same mate in the 1*2 and 197/200. Make sure you definitely use INA ones as well.

Stack dash. Ces’t fin.

You need to send an email to: allan@bridgecraftmotorsport.co.uk I am no longer involved with supplying them as it just took up too much of my time. Tell him I sent you and he will look after you 👍🏻

Only set available that’s NEVER failed.

It was, without doubt the best era for BTCC. Good old chavaliers, E36’s, Alfas etc that looked pretty much the same as what you could buy in the show room! IIRC the Nissans and Laguna’s were the only true 300hp+ n/a power units as well.