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The very front gasket is completely different for the magnex de-cat, like a big chunky olive ring, but woven metal! Mat.

If youve got the money then replace any parts you can, actually, if youve got a new magnex de-cat as well it should come with all new gaskets. new Reno rubbers will help, youll need two. Sealant will reduce the risk of it blowing slightly as mine does. Mat.

Heh! Mat.

Cool, Well ill keep looking for you anyway. Mat.

And im quite surprised at the reliability of my Willy, It had been used little in the last few years and i do like to drive it and so far the only bill i have is for an oil change cos the bloody thing was done up too tight for me to get it off!!! Mat.

LoL, Just the wheels that need re-furbing really. Keep looking, youll find one. If my current money situation continues i might even have to consider selling you mine! Was speaking to BJFoster earlier, sorting him out with a seatbelt and anything else he needs. Mat.

Heres some pics of mine Ben: http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/hosted/matbrown/set2/http://www.daz-uk.com/cliosport/hosted/matbrown/set2/ Mat.

Youll probably need to go Reno for the heated replacement glass, its not for the temp display. Mat.

Found the info i was looking for! You have a PM.;) Mat.

Get the hot tap running through it too. Dont forget to let it dry fully before re-oiling and fitting. Mat.

The other is for the idle speed control valve. If you want to clean it use just use hot soapy water always going from the inside out, you can get proper K&N stuff for cleaning it and youll need some K&N oil once clean. Mat.

But the base model rear strip is different to a 16v/willy one! Mat.

Ill keep my eyes open for you Ben. You could always buy mine! Mat.

His number is 01455 637585. Mat.

Put them on the pipes first, then put them in the k&n as your fitting it. Mat.

Needs a new heater matrix, could try flushing it but wont last long. b**ch of a job too. Try doing a search. Mat.

Yeah, P.Mitchells always on here! Its his. Mat.

Clear your PMs mate, your full! Mat.

Not really, They are all pretty much the same, the only difference is the colour marking on them which relates to a minimal difference in each spring. As long as you use the same code on each side youll be ok. Id get genuine ones though if i was you. Willy code is normally a double white...

Just cos the 172 has more torque, same if you compare the willy to the 16v. Mat.

Just cos the 172 has more torque, same if you compare the willy to the 16v. Mat.

For a minute i thought Joe was back, he was a star. Mat.

For a minute i thought Joe was back, he was a star. Mat.

Bloke in Hinckley is meant to be good but not actually seen any of his work, old geezer who has been doing it for years. Let me know if you want his number. Mat.

Good stuff, hope you got rid of the rust first! Mat.

I use the box section running under the seats with a bit of wood on top of the jack, there is a spot just in from the actual Reno jacking point which Nick Hill uses but you need a reno tool to use it, or just make one! Square bit of metal. Mat.

Used to get 240 out of the Valver but i get over 300 in the Willy! Mat.

Sprint16v had a Willy3 with 210k on it, ran fine until the Cambelt snapped early. Mat.

Not sure about the 172 engine but the handbook for the F7P/R engine says NEVER flush it! Mat.

Why would you want shiney tyres? Bet you put silicon on your Dash too! Mat.