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got mine a new free flow exhaust, de cat made a big difference :p

barry did you ever sort out the problem?

mine did the same thing intermittently, would flutter all over the place, i just cleaned the temp sensor and gave it a good wiggle, been fine ever since

Could be your release bearing, if the clutch plate is worn out u will notice it slipping under acceleration... can u post a vid or a sound clip?

if its a metallic type loud ratteling sound check the front calipers as well... replaced most of my suspension trying to sort out the noise on mine, ended up beeing worn guids on the calipers... take the wheel off on the side the noise is comeing from, of if its from both sides then take any one...

Thats a given, im just speaking from my own experience and from what ive seen... all the cars ive used and worked on have had cambelt or chain driven pumps... and they tend to leak before they sieze... different engines call for different designes though and since I dont own a 182 and havnt...

If something causes the waterpump to sieze from the inside then u already have bad engine damage... snapping a cambelt will just let u know its time to get a new engine :p ive never come across a case of a siezed waterpump on a cam belt or chain driven unit... and as mensioned above... aux...

brake servo... not sure if all models are interchangable, would be best to get the same part as what you have

my engine also idles at ur mentioned values, cant pull off in a hurry unless u give it some gas, on some engines there is a idle adjustment, most times its controlled by the computer though, mabe get it plugged in and c what fualts come up

water pump is pretty vital... would think it would run off a stronger belt... if the aux belt snaps on most cars u can carry on going till the battery runs out... wont get too far without a waterpump...

thats badly designed... then again... most renualts are badly designed:p

i have a 1.4 and the water pump runs off the cambelt, im fairly sure it will run off the cam belt on most engines... there is a restriction pipe on that side of the engine as well as other water hoses, could have been one of those that went, as for slipping off the pullies, i dont think any...

does it battle to start? normally if the crank sensor is dirty it will have intermittent starting problems...

clios generally dont run well at cold start up bt shouldnt battle to start, could be the plugs, coil packs, sticky starter motor...

ah well atleast u dont need to wire it, are u using the factory radio or have u put ur own one in? there should be wiring diagrams on the net for the stock radio on the net, i could give u diagrams for the clio 2 bt i got nothing for the 3, what colours are the wires?

as far as i know it will fit, best to measure it up first

if there isnt a factory wiring harness for the rear speakers then u gonna have to wire them urself, take the covers off and see if there are any wires in the apeture

if uve adjusted something then im guessing it would have been that, a while back i had a issue where the engine would randomly rev to the limiter untill u switch it off and re start it, my coil packs were somehow causing that, bt at the moment when my cars warm it idles at 500 rpm and dosnt...

should be fine to leave it in

good luck!!

It might be possible to use a reverse tap... its like a normal tap bt the threads go the other way around so u drill a small hole in the broken off bolt and use the tap to unskrew it... if its too tight then ull have to use a drill press... I wouldnt try to drill it out using a hand drill. Most...

have you checked the crank sensor? usually thats the cause of non starting, as for firing on 3 cylenders, not familiar with your engine however if it has individual coil packs one of them could be going... 2 of my coil packs failed at only 50k km

if you can get the old bolt out u could re tap the axle mount... dont need a new axle

depends how much its leaking, u could try a radiator stop leak product if its only a slight leak, if its dripping then u need to strip the heater unit and see what needs sorting out... most radiators are only designed to last around 8 to 10 years...

s4 is the best ive used so far not too big yet big enough to do most things

The serv light comes on on my car from the wiring to the seats... I replaced the plugs and it hasnt come on since

Earth lines for the rear lights are in the boot behind the carpets below the skrew that holds the cluster in

mine do the same, my disks are worn with a concave indent, and slider bolts are worn, might be worth checking yours

theres a plastic plug on the front of the gear box that is used to top up and check level, if u unskrew it and can see oil running out or can feel oil through the hole then its at the right level ( make sure the car is on level ground) it should be a red colour or a green brown colour, if its...

did you clean the earth contacts in the inside off the boot behind the carpet, mine did the same as well as when in reverse, cleaned both rear light clusters and the earth and the flicker on the dash was sorted... clean the actual plug that goes to the cluster as well