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the standard plugs can cope perfectly well, it's only had a set of cams LOL. I'd second Micks guess at a plug lead being at fault. It may still be an injector, but some more detailed diagnostics needed. If they're scared to remove the inlet manifold, don't let them work on it again.

the symptoms you've described are not that of a dropped valve. sounds like they're just botched the timing (probably got the pin in the wrong place on the crank) and don't know how to fix it. ​

you're only up the road from me in MK, I'm near Bedford. I can supply and fit you some very good exhausts

Should have fitted an auto box :p

I think the terminal broke at the ECU plug, or the wire pulled out or something.....I can fix that easy if it comes in

Remove the flywheel Take it to an engine reconditioner/machinist ​Ask for it to be re-faced

It rattled a me a pair of maraccas lol

Sounds a lot like a relay not switching on an ECU function. Look for corrosion around the fuse box and on all the relay terminals. sometimes removing and re-fitting can be enough to change something so you know you're looking in the right place

​in 1981 I was 2.......

the XJS is the first car I ever loved. This was my stepdads in 1981: That cabriolet is stunning, I have so much want for on! My uncle bought one about 10 years ago when he retired, that turned out to be an ex press car (c-reg) but he didn't really get on with it sadly.

I didn't say remove, I said slacken. Once centralised you retighten and it will stsy

you would see more difference by fitting a decent bend and getting rid of that original one with the concertina section. There's no heat in that part of the engine bay

thats not limp, it's a destructive misfire. water will be filling a sparkplug hole. washing engines.......FFS kill me now

that will be fitted wrong at the cat join, slacken the join, move it across to the passenger side, and the tailpipes will centralise

Had a look at a Galaxy Mega yesterday....... LOL!!!!!

Yes it will sit different. It will not be good though as they're for a heavier engine. If you want to go lower, buy lowering springs

Revs kill rods. simple as that. Seen LOADS of meg engines with engine damage on stage 2 upgrades (300+bhp/lb/ft, injectors etc) and it's usually from the same place

pads are probably not moving freely in the caliper. Decent quality standard stuff is plenty good enough, even for an occasional track day if you keep everything in good condition

Did one yesterday ​£65

don't do it, it's a terrible idea, all you will achieve is holding heat in the manifold which ultimately will effect power in a negative way. Polished engine parts get so hot you can't go near them

shaft is a different length between models aswell as having different ABS rings

wiggle and pull. if it won't come, man the f**k up

Wasn't my observation initially actually, but yes it did it, and yet is was completely shot. had been rattling for 40k and replacement brought the power back.

hello

yes pretty much. They'll normally be ovalled so will move more one way that the other

leave it alone!

This is using the sidewall on a Parada spec2 man up

Re: dmallett's titanium ph1 fully remove the butterfly, clean up the burrs on the inside of the housing with some fine emery paper, then put it back together. Don't forget a dab of threadlock on the screws

are you shitting me?

They have a legal obligation to warranty the work and parts for 12 months and reasonable mileage (12k is normal)