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As long as it's not pissing down then I'm definitely up for this.

Definitely be a write off if that goes through insurance that. There's some absolute tossers out there to do things like this.

Sounds about right that, any job on the Sports usually ends up with getting injuries lol

I've always managed with a cheapo chain wrap style one. I Just find you have to get as close to the engine block as possible so it doesn't just crush the filter. Or man up and do it with your hands :P lol

I might be up for this.

Tried bump starting it when it has it's hissy fit and not starting? If it does bump start then you'll know for certain it's the starter motor that's knackered.

TDI North's rollers are very generous lol Mine ran 20bhp more on their rollers than it did at RSTuning. Really like that EP3 though.

I've also used it neat on my wheels that only have a rattle can spray job on them and never had any issues.

Arctic blue 182 on aftermarket wheels? See that car regular in Irlam.

Hammerite and a lot of patience if you're painting them in sit-u lol Also it's wise to use masking tape on areas you don't want to get paint on.

Re: My Phase 1 ITB Daily Runner Realllllly do like this car. Looks brilliant. Quick question, you know the heat shield you've fitted to the bulkhead, how is it fixed? is it bolted to the bulkhead or stuck down with something? Edit: Just seen the bolts in the pics above lol.

H&R and Bilstein and two separate brands. If they're Bilsteins they've not got adjustable damping IIRC.

I just used etch primer 1st then used ordinary car paint on top of that. Year down the line and it's still fine. Used the same process for the rocker cover and upper inlet plenum.

I've stuck rubber in there to stop excess movement in the past.

Haha! All I saw was a small yellow dot that kept getting smaller and smaller in my rear view mirror :P

I got one from ECP for £70 using the "CHAT100" discount code.

On that theory a Ph-1 should be the quickest then :P

There's a couple of dogging spots over Rivi.......... so I believe

I used this to remove them lol. Tool chip has posted is the proper tool for the job but they're expensive and not worth buying unless you're regularly using it IMO.

Ahhh is that what that was. There was a lot of cars at the bottom, looked like people were packing up ready to leave.

Great pics mate, managed to make mine look clean. lol And FLOL at that censored wheel.

Clio TT originally had a ph-1 front end IIRC? Believe it's not as straight forward as unbolting the ph-1 parts and bolting the ph-2 parts on. I don't know for certain but just what I've read about it previously and it being a bit of a faff.

The movement in the spindle, is that while the little torx screws in the centre of the spindle are in place and tight? Mine doesn't move until I undo those. Also something else I tried was taking the butterfly out and flipping it around and putting it in the opposite way (if you get what I...

Clicking tends to be CV joints. Topmounts knock.

Mine was doing exactly the same thing in the video. I tried cleaning it following Russ' guide several times to no avail. In the end I just dismantled it and cleaned it that way instead then soaked all the moving parts in oil to lubricate it. Improved things a hell of a lot but I do occasionally...

Did someone mention Race?

Or slide something over the wheel brace, i.e jack handle, piece of pipe to give you more leverage. Having a breaker bar will come in handy for various things though.

I won't be able to do the 29th.

The soundproofing on the bulkhead is looking rather tired and worn. I know you can replace it with heatproof shielding type stuff but I'm not keen on how that would look in the engine bay. Only other solution I can think of to keep the heat away from the various things that run behind there i.e...

The one's I made last year.