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Any pictures of yours fitted Mark?

Did you scrap the AX idea in the end?

Which sections have been modded Rhys? The cooler arrived by the way Mate. Cheers ;)

Looking well Rhys. Is the RS4 yours too? Why not strip the loom of all useless plugs and wrap it?

The rear is much tidier than the front as only the rear was fitted before. The front half is sleeved in front of the b pillars.

I bought this as an OMP however all of the OMP cages and most others for that matter have rear feet that sit on the arches. The rear feet of this sit on the boot floor in between the arches. It should have door bars but the lugs were removed and one of the door bars fitted as a harness bar...

Is that the full arm Jay? I've copied your AX single wiper and wondered which arm/blade combo you'd used?

How did you fit the T7? Did you rig it up so it can blow cold air too? Is it worth the effort?

Do you mean the whole dash or dash strips etc? If you mean the whole dash, don't do anything too it. Heater vents, strips etc look good but anything else is just tacky. And do not go near sh!ter bombing.

You could have it for £25. It's in Iceberg but saves you messing about.

I took 2kg out today just in seat and panel brackets from the rear.

Fibreglass one even carbon fibre matting on the back then some serious wet an dry time and re-lacquer. In all honesty, it will look sh!t again within a month as lacquer isn't particularly hard wearing and it's so low to the ground. I had my old CSL splitters redone and they looked poo in no time.

My 6mm is Wurth. Tough as old boots. I stuck a hole in the boot floor on my first go. Oops!

I thought it might Ash. Wish I never started! I'm doing it as it's a pointless lump of steel and my car is a bare bones track car. I wouldn't bother though if you're Wondering!

The strip that runs from the pedals back towards the seat. How the hell do you remove it?! I tried my spot weld drill which didn't even make a dent, ground a couple of welds, still nothing. I have a 6mm spot weld drill so I think this may be a bit small. Any other thoughts?

You could probably mod a phase 2 handle to fit the contours of the phase 1 bootlid. Just a bit of trimming and 3 holes. Or I could sell you my phase 2 bootlid ;)

So the al general consensus is it's worth it?

Its £15 each gents. As you say, I'm not sure how bad a Clio gets.

I did one side which was definitely right. I think my brother bashed it on and left the offside rear pointing inwards. Tool. Leeds_182 followed my mate driving it the other day and referred to it as the crab. Lol. It does feel like it could flick out. No pulling just loose.

I fitted some of Eds -1.5 rear shims a few weeks ago. I drove the car tonight and at normal speeds the rear seems very lively. I didn't push I as I have jacketed rear calipers but is this a feature of the smaller contact patch due to the camber? Alternatively, I think my brother could have...

My headlight "supercharger". 70mm CAF straight to phase 1 airbox inlet.

Anyone had a go with this at £15 a go? The car is on 89k. http://www.simoncgreen.co.uk/fuelinjection.php

Found this valve. Would this work in diverting through a balance pipe/loop back to the pump or through the heater...

Looks sh!t. Hope it looks better now.

So could I replace this with a larger pipe Dan or even fit a valve that directs through the matrix and closes the balance pipe or closes the matrix and opens that balance pipe?

That's what I feared. I guess I could create a loop before the matrix with a valve afterwards?

That's for a Cup. A FF is a little more involved. Black panel off of the bulkhead, inlet manifold off, around 8 bolts holding the blower in, 2 of which are inside.

No one any ideas if it's safe to fit a valve running to the heater matrix?

I could be in an M3 or 172 so maybe I go last of the front/first of the rear? Who wants the deposit?

Not much help on the how but did you get round to this mate as I'm planning exactly the same.