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isnt the cup an et37? whereas the normal 172 runs a higher offset?

if its a tint (to compliment full window tints) then yes, otherwise no.

cheers, trying to avoid touching the bottom end. Too many bolts lying around as it is, and was planning a 172 conversion in 4-5months time anyway. Not at all worth cleaning the inlet manifold? (no idea how bad these get, but my TB was far from clean)

im down 60 on 17's - they just go on, no problems. you can lower it as much as you like to be honest, fred's ph2 is lower than 100mm afaik - only thing you've got to worry about is the front arches on cornering. Just make sure you get the right offset wheels!

the dealer would have to prove that the paint caused the failure - not even worth their while - they get paid either way at the end of the day.

right, cambelt snapped so the head's off to get new vavles ground in, guides checked, etc. Anything i should do (ie clean, etc) while its off? Car's sitting at 65k(ish), and hasnt been feeling great for a wee while now (ok its only a 1.2, but its definetly not as nippy as it was a while...

Hellcat, seen people say that before, seen others who didnt succeed, seen others who popped the circlip off doing it your way - which is why i wouldnt even try it.

182's seem to be owned mainly by women, especially if you live in scotland! apparently 182 = womans car, 172 = mans car.... lol it could be normal, afterall it is a renault, just depends how much play there is.

it shouldnt slide off like its on rollers. I'm SURE (from memory) it slides towards you to take it off. The centre probably will be a bit 'sticky', it is just plastic on plastic after all.

driveshafts? u can roll the front wheels back slightly with the handbrake on? the handbrake is only braking the rear wheels so not quite sure what you're saying. Noisy wheel bearings should be fixed, regardless of if you've heard them noisier before or not. If its not braking like it...

cheaper all round if you dont speed, lol.

no worries was about to reply giving you some abuse though... lol

did you take the screws out from behind the steering column cover? the screws at either side when you open the doors? the screws along the windscreen heater? the top of the dash should slide towards you first, then you lift. it doesnt simply lift up.

its literally a detector. Best system you could go for would be one that was based on GPS - as newer camera's are moving from radar to ground loops, and the detector wont pick them up, or specs, etc etc Traffic lights use radar to sense cars - the radar will almost certainly interfere with...

theres a beam on either side that runs from the front of the car to a rear on each side at the floorpan - try there. I wouldnt jack up the subframe.

mk3? you mean mk2 ph2? dont do it, colour code the car, maybe fit a splitter, subtle skirts etc. Bodykits just dont look good on mk2's imo - but thats just me.

cut it off.... thats your only option. (ie cut it up with a junior hacksaw)

Citizens advice! seriously. PS. Their calls should be recorded, so they'll have proof of what their staff have been telling you. They also have a duty to inform you of any changes to the policy - which they clearly haven't (if there has been a change that is!)

its not always the pads you have to worry about moving freely make sure the guide pins on the caliper are free to move aswell.

if they supplied and fitted the bearing, they should replace it as the bearing should come with some kind of warranty - That is assuming you've not done anything to cause it (crashing through potholes, wrong offset wheels, etc).

erm... more details...? is it permenantly jammed in gear? or just sticking in gear? and does the car still drive? check your engine mounts, particularly dogbone mount (the lower engine mount)

stand alone rev counters are usually controlled by the ignition. I'd imagine the wiring will be there for the rev counter - just a different instrument panel.

as above, there are holes on the ph1. Its really just the ph2 172's where the badge is simply stuck on (due to the tailgate being a standard part, and we all know the ph2's dont even come with renault badges)

best bet is to change at 36k as said above, particulary if the car is mainly used for short trips around town, etc. Shame though, the car must just be out of warranty. Its just almost as likely that something seized and caused the belt to break - but thats not an issue as the engine is...

if there was a problem, the garage would have to prove that your modification caused it. The best bit about this is, its not going to bother most garages whether or not theres modifications, as they effectively get paid to sort the problem by RenaultUK. Easy to change, i always seem to be...

i know the feeling, mine is only a 1.2 8v and it snapped on saturday, took 5 valves from what i can tell. Getting inlet valves for £4 each, exhaust valves for £5 each. Having the guides checked, valves ground in, the head skimmed and cleaned up for £45 by a mates work. Obviously more...

80/84 is the compound afaik. Better just to check the existing tyres... better than asking us to guess;)

he said ph1...:sleep:

standard rubber one or the plastic one? the rubber one comes on the bumper and cant be bought seperately. No idea of part number for the front splitter, but I could get it for £60 at one point (probably not genuine though)

give the wiring on the starter a wiggle... sounds stupid, but theres a tech note somewhere, and if i recall correctly its because of one of the connectors becoming damaged with heat, or something along those lines. Mine used to do it, gave the wiring a wiggle as suggested, problems not been...