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http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/ are pretty decent.

if the bulbs are coated to help prevent UV rays, they should be fine id imagine. 100w bulbs should even be ok (well they are on the mk2 twin optics to the best of my knowledge)

how many miles are on the pads? chances are theyre just rubbing the caliper and squeeling. Just a case of greasing the back of the pad where it touches the caliper with copper grease. Itll probably just wash off after a while with the winter coming.

looks more like a posers car than a drivers car - I mean this in the best way possible. If I was LEDA, id want the kit to be used.

maybe eventually... ive had mine on for over a year and havent had any problems with them, and theyve been abused! lol

drilled discs = noise when braking... but depends largely on the pads being used. Theyre basically designed to aid cooling, but only really worthwhile on a fast car, hence why 911s, etc run them.

i remember said post, and have the feeling it was maybe fred who said it, with regards to the cylinder head gasket being fine and it just being a build up of moisture. Id be worried about having an ex-driving school car - the fact its got 120k on the clock would scare me more.

why? aftermarket dampers are almost always built to oe spec - what i mean is, so that youve got a damper that will take any spring designed for the car. I dont know enough about mk1s, so cant comment on whether or not theyll fit, id be worried about geometries with a valver shock on an RT hub...

yeah im tempted to change to a set of 16s, but doubt theyll look anywhere near as good.

cylinder head gasket only really the labour that costs, the gasket itself doesnt cost much at all. 1.2 16v with 120k on the clock?

i actually found my speedo to be more accurate with 17s than standard wheels.

since when was the hub a deciding factor on whether or not you could fit solid or vented discs? i may be wrong, but i thought the only thing you had to worry about was the calipers/carriers (to cope with the extra thickness of disc)

they do... the most common fitment is 58mm.

afaik both the 1.2 16v and 1.4 use 58mm spacing on the hub carriers. Cant see why youd have to change them. Someone feel free to correct me if im wrong, but i dont think i am.

but as you say rich, if its not done right. A car lowered 100mm SHOULD outhandle the same car lowered 40, with the right set up. Look at freds mk2. The problem is, you lower a mk1 on a standard torsion bar, youre asking for trouble

i fitted mine without the need for adding a fuse, must have already been there for some unknown reason. Easy to wire though (just dont do it in the dark, or break your grille when taking it off)

strictly speaking it must have a mechanical method of entry, ie it cant rely on the battery. To the guy who said that the anti-hijack feature will prevent entry in the event of an accident, youll find that the doors actually unlock on impact to allow entry. imo a good idea would be to wire...

4 springs... which come together, you rarely buy them seperately. Drop it 60mm, anything less just isnt worth it imo. Although on standard 15s itll sit pretty low - bad if you live where i live, otherwise its fine. Apex are probably the best 60mm springs youll get. Otherwise go for eibachs...

eh? different sized discs, theyll go on fine, with the right calipers and carriers. Wouldnt like to comment on the calipers, they could be the same, just not sure. Theyre both girling calipers, and are the same from what I can gather - but I dont actually know this for sure.

i think its normal too, otherwise the engine wouldnt start until the tb was opened manually

the bulb holders are sh*te to say the least. The connectors corrode and so does the wiring (including pins on the plug). So when you think youve rubbed the connections down enough, it still doesnt work I had to bodge a new connection for the MOT, and its still working, so itll do me.

you could just go buy a set of calipers and brackets to fit the standard disc dimensions. Standard discs with 4pots should be better than just fine!

my mk2 ph1 has girling on the front, and bosch rear drums on a car that supposedly didnt have bosch rear drums until 3 months after i got my car... go figure. To throw a spanner in the works, my fronts are solid discs on girling calipers. So its not automatically bendix calipers if you have...

the girlings will say lucas on the calipers... its that simple really. Doesnt mean the whole brake system is lucas though. I have lucas fronts, with bosch rears

fitted a new rear wheel cylinder yesterday and was having problems with it still leaking, so gave up for the night. Today i went out, had a look, and whats actually happening is that one of the pistons is coming out the cylinder a bit too far, but the other one doesnt really move as much -...

the entire brake assembly (including stub axle, etc) on a mk1 with discs, will it fit a mk2? if so, what about brake lines?

fit them yourself! not worth the extra £125 for fitting, such an easy job.

warning though... that chart can vary! the colour of my wires were different, and from what i read there were other people with the same problem.

bttt stress! :(

anyone else? just to throw a spanner in the works, my brake fluid level is above max! its almost up to the top of the reservior... any ideas? (please dont tell me its the master cylinder... :( )