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Only option for this is to have a purpose made lightweight one in my opinion.

i am almost certain they are all the same with the exception of the 172 cup subframe. Saying that they are all interchangeble with zero issues, only difference is very slight. The 172 cup subframe has the mounting holes for the bottom arm slightly further out

Good results, standard rad was always going to be an issue. Only a stop gap though so no harm really. Hopefully testing goes well on the 8th Also got a link to the turbo you used? Torque did it make

Had it weighed with me in it. Result was 1026KG, with half a tank of fuel and me at 81KG

Looks good. What did you do with the coolant lines?

When I'm back at the car (not sure when that'll be) I'll try an remember to get pics

I'm in the process of doing this now as moving all the fuel and brake lines to run inside the car. I have done as mark suggested but retained the standard rail

Good progress, power you hoping for when mapped? @James5_GTT

Which is odd as the earlier one has slightly smaller, shorter runners and a slightly smaller plenum volume

As am I, won't be back on track until mid to late match I reckon. Might be taking a space in johns unit over winter

Shed 😂 Na be good to see it all back together an get more track time together next year. Might be seeing you in the unit aswel :up:

Could be replicated by any decent machine shop. It would be costly I would imagine though

Not worth the risk driving it IMO why don't you remove your ECU send to Chris so he can upload a base map for boost. He sends you the ECU back with the EFI module an you simply wire the module in (its super easy), and of course plug your ECU back in Then drive there knowing it's a lot safer an...

Less hen 1k so for an extra 100 so quid you can get new coilovers an specify the spring rates you want. Alternatively support a local racer an buy Fraser's :up:

Should look at the new AVO suspension if your considering spending 800+ but don't want to stretch to AST money

you can flip the inlet like @bloke suggests, only issue is extending certain parts of the loom. No hassle at all really

Basically all the kits out there will work with the SM inlet with a little adaptation to the boost pipes. Simple stuff to fabricate really

Turbo build is never going to be cheap. There are various routes you can take, ED, ClioTurbo, SBWorx or you can fit a 225 manifold and turbo and have a custom downpipe made. To aid piping you could source an IC with inlet and exit both on the passenger side

SJCAM can be had for £40 so can have 1 front an rear for half the cost an the footage is more than adequate and isn't far off go pro quality

yes come as a complete shaft with CV's, boots and ABS rings

I have a 406 master cylinder to switch the side the brake pipes come out and fittings to relocate the reservoir was just curious to see the clearance. I shall await a picture of the downpipe fitted as i don't plan to start mine until the new year

@James5_GTT any pics of the downpipe fitted to see how close it is to the brake fluid reservoir?

Prices will depend heavily on your local motorfactors, Dingbro and TMS motorspares both quoted me around £90 per shaft.

There always seems to be posts looking for driveshaft information, i recently contacted shaftec about various shafts and received the following part numbers back for the varying clios. Clio 172 cup (1 piece offside shaft) LHS = R209AL RHS = R209AR Clio 172 (2 piece offiside shaft) 8mm thick...

Those with the sj cams what software do you use for editing the videos?

Not too much of an issue then, still would be annoying Progress is looking good though

should the fuel pump be running constantly like that? I would have thought it would stop after its primed

From speaking to safety devices it's not the singl door bar that is the issue. It's the proximity of the A pillar leg to the actual A pillar and the position of the mounting foot for said leg of the cage

100% the spring in the throttle body. with it fitted look down at the spring an slowly open the throttle by hand, you will see a shiny area on the spring........this is what is causing the sticking. The spring loses tension over time, expands and rubs on the plastic part of the throttle body...

Shame to see such a car in such a state! I would be gutted if it were my car. Hate to be a vulture but i would be interested in a few parts, i shall await the for sale thread though